tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-81113904922245163212024-03-19T00:07:50.285-04:00A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single stepCatching the steps and writing them down...amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.comBlogger436125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-90683800339469700342024-01-22T03:22:00.002-05:002024-01-22T03:34:11.143-05:00Halfway there<p><span style="font-family: verdana;"> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">22 Jan 2024</span></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Halfway there…</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">There is an oxymoron of sorts between the safari/visitor experience outside the airport and the visitor experience within the airport. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Anything in the airport makes me never want to travel again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Landing is always a nightmare with immigration (although this time I totally won the lottery and breezed through) but leaving…ugh.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I got the Four Points shuttle from my hotel to the terminal. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I have Sky Priority, so I got to use that entrance, but it was still about 20 minutes to get in the building because of the suitcase scan. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And no one respects queues. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Or personal space. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>No one.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Then passport control. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There was a Sky Priority line that had easily 150 people in it. That is somewhat odd because there were 3 Sky partners flights going out last night, Kenyan, Air France and KLM. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Business Class has about 25 seats, so where do all those people come from? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And the people who think they can just breeze past everyone waiting in line….argh.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Then a second security check. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Yes you just had to take off your shoes, remove your laptop and have your bag scanned to enter the terminal. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Now you’re doing it again as you enter the airside section of the airport.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I went to the Sky Lounge which was jam packed and no seats available. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I finally found one and sat long enough to drink a Sprite but that was it.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I avoided the worst of the boarding area pandemonium (another sore spot of traveling out of that airport) by having Sky boarding priority, so I was settled into my seat and sipping champagne with my seat mate while everyone else was herding on. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I cannot get used to that.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">My seat mate was Julius from Uganda, now living and working in Kenya. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We talked a lot about his work and moving to Kenya and why I go to Kenya so often. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We then both slept for about 7 hours of the 9 hour flight and picked up our conversation where we left off on the flight and in the Sky Lounge. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He’s off to L.A. for work, so I gave him a list of things to do for fun there. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We also exchanged details in case I decide to go to Uganda next year or meet up in Kenya when I go back.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The re-entry to reality is more turbulent than landing at Schipohl in 60 mph winds. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m trying to hold on to that safari feeling but man, humanity doesn’t make it easy.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">About an hour to kill until I have to go through pre-screening to re-enter the US and get ready to board. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In the lounge drinking them out of cappuccino and orange juice. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Not long now until I’m back with my own big cats.</span></span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-64355835237040831812024-01-21T12:41:00.001-05:002024-01-21T12:41:08.311-05:00Damn you, Mara<p><span style="font-family: verdana;"> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">21 Jan 2024</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Damn you, Mara, you did it again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Why oh why are the last few game drives so.damn.good? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>If I was even remotely on the fence about coming back next year, I’m definitely not now. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Let’s start from the beginning…</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It only rained until about 11:30. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I heard it stop and didn’t hear it again all night. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I only heard lions once, and very far off in the distance. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Between wet grass and puddly roads and an overcast start, I wasn’t holding out a lot of hope.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I was up and finished packing by 5:30. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Got my wake up coffee at 5:45 and in the truck with Twala by 6:00. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Except he got there early and another vehicle parked in front of us, and I had to wait for some extremely nice but incredibly slow elderly folk from the UK to get situated in their vehicle. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As soon as they did, we were off and passed them pretty quickly as this was their first official game drive and they were stopping for everything. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As you do.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Our plan today was for cats, but I had no particular order or preference. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’d have loved to see the big pride we left last night and Twala was on the phone to the rangers to see if he could find them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They hadn’t seen them yet.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">A very very tiny hippo and its enormous (comparatively) mother were off to our left and I commented on how tiny the hippo was. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala stopped and we looked at it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The slow folks were still in front of us and taking longer to appreciate the hippo. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala started the vehicle and just as he did, we hear a lion roar incredibly close, like mere yards away. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I said “did you hear that?” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He said “yeah, which direction?” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I pointed to 1:00 (whale watching style, you guide people to a sighting by the face of a clock, with noon being straight ahead). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He agreed and we turned into the next bunch of bushes to find the three little cubs and two lionesses from yesterday (with the dead zebra) as well as their dad who is one of the Koka boys. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(Actually all three of the Koka boys are probably the cubs’ dad since the lionesses mated with them all, so who knows for sure).</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">One of the moms was inside with the zebra leftovers. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The other mom was just at the edge of the opening to the bush with the little two month old cubs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Problem was, it was still way before sunrise and pretty dark. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I didn’t even attempt photos at first. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And then as we got more light over the course of 20 minutes or so, I threw the ISO on my camera up to about 32000 and fired away. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Those shots came out looking like daylight. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Who knows how good they’ll be on a big screen or as an enlarged print, but I just wanted photos of the little ones.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I could sit and listen to lion cubs chirp all day long. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s the cutest sound and they always seem so happy or playful when they do it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The male caught sight of another female and ran toward her, which irritated the female with the cubs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She went charging after him a bit, but then retreated to the cubs again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The other female kept eating the zebra.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">There were now about 8 cars around this sighting and I felt bad (limit is 5). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I told Twala we could go back to whatever he had planned and check on them later since they were so close to camp. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So off we went. </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We looped around the area where we left the big pride. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>No luck. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was pretty quiet for most everything actually. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then we crested a hill and saw two vehicles near an acacia. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I figured leopard and I was right. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One of the cars was a ranger, so crowd control would be a must here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was the leopard known as Spot or Nolari. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She was sprawled over a tree branch, with paws dangling over either side as leopards do. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We pulled up on the best side and just sort of hung out until she moved. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then the other vehicles started to come, so the 5 observing rule was in motion and there was a line of vehicles a bit away from her waiting to swap in. </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Nolari moved up further into the tree where she’d stashed a warthog kill and started crunching. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I could see a bit more of her face as she occasionally raised it to take a breath from eating. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I got a few good photos that way but I really wanted to see her come down the tree. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then the rangers asked us to swap out, fair enough. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala moved us so I had full view on the most likely side of the tree she’d come down, but also far enough away to please the rangers.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">She moved again to another part of the tree to finish off the warthog head (this would become a theme, stay tuned). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That took a little longer. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then she emerged from any greenery to roost at the point where the branches met the trunk of the tree and she cleaned herself. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As cats do. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>No different than any house cat I know!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I was ready with the camera, checked the settings and the focus, set it to multiple-shots and off we went. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She hesitated on the first few steps that allowed me to grab focus and down she went. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I think I may have pulled that off. They look good on the camera screen, especially the last few as she hit the ground.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Twala’s first observation, “she looks pregnant”. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>How good would it be to have another cute leopard cub around? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She started to look in one direction, away from us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then Twala put the vehicle in gear and passed the other vehicles still sitting and watching her. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He somehow aligned me just right so she was walking right at me as she headed for the bushes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was about as good as it gets. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He’s been really good with helping me with photos this trip, and by the looks of what I’ve seen so far, it’s paid off.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Once she disappeared, a couple in another vehicle yelled my name and it was Celia and Nigel (of the mountain hike walk at Lewa fame). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They are at another camp here and recognized me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were so sweet. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Their driver came over to us so we could chat.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">On </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Next up we were headed for bush breakfast with the hopes that maybe the big pride surfaced again when we came across two more vehicles from other camps that were stuck in the mud. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Both were pretty hopeless looking but Twala stopped and advised and ultimately pulled one out. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He tried to get the other out but the right front tire was almost entirely immersed. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He said they’d need the conservancy’s heavy equipment to get it out.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Then as an unexpected bonus, we passed Nashipae and the cubs again. They’d moved from where they were usually found and were sleeping right out on an open plain, no bushes or trees around at all, and just off the road. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Since they were sleeping and no one else was around, we went off to eat. </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We had a nice chat as always, plenty of laughs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Same breakfast as previous days. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I will miss those chocolate granola bars!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Then we passed back by Nashipae and they were all awake AND PLAYING! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was over the moon. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We must have watched them for 45 minutes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I took an embarrassingly large number of shots today (1500+) using the multi-shot for the leopard and them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were just so cute and they have their own little chirp which is just as fun to listen to.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It is really neat to see how play mimics hunting and killing and how serious they get about it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Not only were they piling on each other and roughhousing but they’d also turn to their mom and start play attacking her. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It really was precious to see how patient she is with them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I don’t know how she does it! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When they’re up and full of energy, they’re really a handful!!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It was starting to near the bewitching hour. Twala got word that my flight had been moved earlier, so I had to leave camp by 2:20 for a 2:45 flight. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We had time to check out the lion cubs near camp one more time but when we got there, only the big pride male was there, gnawing the face off the zebra head that was left for him. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was both gruesome and fascinating how he got ever last bit of nourishment off the zebra. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>At one point the zebra teeth were pointed up as if smiling at the whole process, which again is sort of funeral home humor.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">What we didn’t fully appreciate when we stopped in front of said lion was that we’d stopped in big muddy puddle. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We were face first into a bush, so not a lot of room to go that way. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala was spinning tires and lurching back and forth hoping to get some purchase. Another of our camp’s vehicles sat nearby. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Mud was absolutely raining in the open roof and the side windows. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I tried my best to stay clean, to no avail. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>After only a couple of minutes, we lurched free. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The big old lion kept eating the zebra head the entire time.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Lunch today was great. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They had fish sticks made with red snapper, veggie fritters that were excellent, a tomato, cucumber, feta and dill salad and a mango custard for dessert. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had my last Stoney Tangawizi until next time.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Twala came for me at 2:20 and by then the rain had started. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It wasn’t as hard as last night but still a pain. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And I didn’t get to see my last views of the Mara with my own eyes but rather through the filmy plastic window coverings meant to keep me dry.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I always find the airstrip goodbyes hard, especially when I’m leaving for good. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I like my guides a lot, especially Peter and Twala, so it’s probably better that it happen quickly so I don’t get mushy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The plane was already there so I ran behind him through about 4” of standing water (not kidding) and said a quick goodbye after he loaded my luggage. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ll miss him, but I’ll be back.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">There were four other stops in the Mara before we headed to Nairobi, and none of them had rain. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Maybe Naboisho was crying because I’m going.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Once I got over my liftoff tears, I started to pay attention to the landscape below me, and noticed giraffes, gazelle, wildebeest, buffalo and even a few elephants (I’d seen none at all in the Mara on this trip…Twala said they go to higher, rockier terrain when it’s this wet). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was back in Nairobi by 5:00 and at the hotel by 5:30. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dinner and a shower before I head to the airport at 9:00.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">A few quick thoughts before I head home….</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I’m not done with safari, no more than safari is done with me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Anita said to me one night “maybe this is the only place you are the real you.” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And the more I think about it, I think she might be right.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I was utterly blessed with weather. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I worried nonstop about it as I saw more photos and reports from here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>To make it the entire trip until last night without any serious rain is an absolute blessing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m beyond grateful.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I have far too many highlights. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The guys who drove me to my day room hotel at the airport asked, and I have too many to pick one. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Of course the cats…every interaction was incredible. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But the rhinos were great, the scents of Lewa were so memorable. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>All the landscapes, all the special people. </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I’m so incredibly lucky.</span></span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-82403850170755080872024-01-20T15:23:00.001-05:002024-01-20T15:23:43.119-05:00Blessings<p><span style="font-family: verdana;"> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-weight: bold;">20 Jan 2024</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Another good night of sleep with the tent flaps open. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>No noises to speak of though Twala says he heard a pride of lions to the northwest. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I woke at 5:15 to get ready and by 5:30 heard gentle rain falling on the deck. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I checked Accuweather radar and it looked to be a small batch of showers that would end by 6:30 and indeed that was the case. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala rolled the plastic coverings off the side windows of the Land Rover shortly after.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We headed in the direction of the lions he heard. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Passing other vehicles en route he conferred with other guides to see what they’d seen or heard since they’d been out early too. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In a word: nothing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>At least no cats. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I even felt that plains game was really light too, and it’s hard to say why. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We made a big loop and came back around to cheetah Nashipae and her cubs, who were a bit more active than yesterday since they’d eaten but were about to lapse into their first nap of the day. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We stayed a bit longer until we realized there’d be no more action from them for a while, and then moved on.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">As the sky started to clear there was more activity but still no lions. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala was scouring the territories of a couple of prides and we finally came across one lone lioness of the Ilksiausiau pride sitting by a bush. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She was annoyed by flies around her, so eventually she got up and moved deeper into a bush, so we left to look for something more.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">There was an inter-troop territory dispute between two troops of vervet monkeys that was kind of fun to watch. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A lot of posturing and stepping over some imaginary line that was completely unacceptable to the other side. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Eventually one side pushed the other side back and all went their separate ways.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It was also neat to happen upon a newly born wildebeest. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Since the placenta still hadn’t dropped from the mom, Twala reckoned it was less than 10 minutes old. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was already on its feet and sticking very close to mom as it continued to find its footing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It can walk within 3 minutes and run within 7 minutes of birth. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Good thing because it’s move or become someone’s lunch here.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The sun was out and the skies turning blue by the time we had bush breakfast. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I shed my raincoat and was comfortable in short-sleeves the rest of the drive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>My vehicle mate departs today at lunchtime so it’s just me and Twala for the afternoon game drive.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Lunch today was a cold avocado and cucumber soup which was quite good (and I don’t like cucumber!). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The main was veggie lasagna and a tomato, onion and mango salad. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I wish I could cut matchstick veggies like they do, it looks so uniform and tidy! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was a slab of chocolate brownie with a peppermint ice cream….Dad would have loved that as much as I did! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Mike the manager ate with me today now that my vehicle mate has moved on and he was delightful to talk to. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s interesting to hear how he got into doing the interim manager work and all the camps he’s been to in Kenya. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Really nice guy.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I’ve already packed most everything for tomorrow, so I can just relax the rest of today’s siesta and be ready for leaving. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Sniff…</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><much, much later on….></span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Well then, remember all that karma I built up earlier this week with that cheetah hunt I missed out on….yes, this is where it all comes back to me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Today’s afternoon game drive could not have ended this trip any better. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But dang it all, why are the last days always the best days? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Kenya keeps dangling a carrot, “come back, Amy!”</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Twala and I headed out at 4:00. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He’d been doing some research during the break and had a general idea where the Ilksiausiau pride was now. This is one of the larger prides and one I saw last February when it was much larger (it is now broken into two and has new pride males, the Maja ya Fisi males Bully and Limpy). </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">So on we drive, chatting and stopping to watch a big mob of banded mongoose and a lilac breasted roller. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then we came upon three female giraffes, one of which I thought was being curious about us stopping to watch them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I said out loud “look how curious she is” and Twala said “maybe she sees something behind us.” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He started up the Land Rover again and moved maybe 30 yards down the road and on the right he saw a lioness lounging up against a bush. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>“Lioness,” he said as he stopped. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And then I heard it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The unmistakable little chirp of lion cubs. </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">“LION CUBS,” I said. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And he had the Land Rover in gear before I even got the words out. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He circled behind the bush where the first lioness was and we saw that in the bush next to hers was a second lioness with three tiny 2 month old cubs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This was the lioness we saw with the failed impala hunt last night. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala had thought she’d lost her cubs, but here they were! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And she’d delivered a zebra kill, the remains of which were lying between them in the bush and me.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I could just about make out the cubs as they tried to coax their mother to let them nurse, but she was having none of that. She was panting heavily and clearly was not in the mood. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Struggling to take photos through the bush branches as well as over a gory, exposed zebra carcass was a challenge, but I got one finally when a curious little cub peeked over the carcass. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ll crop it well so you’ll hardly know.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The sighting would be a bit of a challenge unless they cubs came out and by now the other camp vehicle was just arriving, so cute as these cubs were, I gave up our spot to go find something else. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That’s always a risk because on safari a bird in the hand is usually always better. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Usually.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Now we were back to heading to where the rangers had told Twala the big pride was. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They’d seen them in their territory just that afternoon and it was still only around 4:30 so plenty of time before the heat of the day subsided and they get active. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We made several passes around where we thought they might be, to no avail. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala was busily trying to reach the rangers again while driving, so I was doing the best I could to help scan the bushes around us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When we reached the end of the territory, there were two huge herds of cattle that a local was herding back home for the day. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>If lions are around, they won’t come out with all those cattle there. I saw vehicles off in the distance and we investigated and it was the rangers and another camp vehicle, and they confirmed the pride was in the bushes there and mostly asleep.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">So we decided to head to the cheetah with cubs again to see if they were up and more active than this morning. They were more awake certainly but not necessarily more active. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I got a few shots off while Twala was scanning the horizon with binoculars. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Quite a ways off in the distance coming down a hill toward where we were was a big male lion. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I don’t know how on earth Twala saw that, but he asked if I wanted to check out the male, which was likely heading for the big pride in the bushes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Of course!! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I could hardly believe my luck, imagine having so many options it was difficult to decide what to do!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We managed to get just ahead of this big boy as he crossed the plain, clearly a cat on a mission. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Looping around the bushes and circling back to the pride who were now just starting to awaken, we were the second vehicle at the sighting. The rangers were still monitoring the vehicle volume around them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They would allow no more than 5 vehicles at a time and not let anyone hog their spot. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This is great for the lions but obviously I wanted to sit and stay. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>No worries, we swapped out and had our sundowner as we waited our turn to get back on the sighting, not bad at all.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Initially Twala told me there were 4 lionesses and 4 cubs asleep in the bushes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That would have been a great score on its own. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But the longer we sat there, the more cats came out of those bushes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The pride male we saw crossing the plain showed up, but then a second male (these are the Maji ya Fisi males who took over this pride in December, I think) and then at least 7 cubs total that I could count and 8 lionesses! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>How on earth did I manage this? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And what an amazing lion sighting after a bit of a drought here in the Mara. I was worried earlier today that I’d “only” seen 7 lions since I’ve been here, but today added another 30 to that tally. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Phew!!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">What was interesting sitting there watching them was that there was some turmoil and drama going on in the bushes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala thinks they may have caught something in there or brought a kill in because there was clearly some fighting going on, one cub had some blood on itself and another cub was spotted carrying something around, presumably a piece of a carcass. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We never saw what was in those bushes that kept them so on edge. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was an interesting dynamic anyway, to see lionesses and cubs moving in and out of those bushes and dealing with whatever skirmish was going on in there.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">My other observation that was concerning was one lioness was heaving or spasming every 3 seconds. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I thought at first she had a furball coming up (because I have vast experience with that at home!) but Twala said she’d been doing this for 6 months now. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I felt horrible for her but she did not seem to be terribly hampered by it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She looked otherwise healthy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I asked if rangers would do anything about it and he only said that they were aware. Hmmm.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">So I got to sit for about an hour as other vehicles peeled away to go back to camp for dinner. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was well past daylight when I could take photos but it was just nice to be there with all these lions. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In the dying of the light, the lionesses all got up one by one and headed across the plains. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala thought for sure they were going to hunt.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Meanwhile the sky was turning black and not just from lack of daylight. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The storms were building again, and I could see lightning bolts in three different directions. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was hoping to make it back to camp before a deluge started, and we just made it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When the sky ripped open it came lashing down. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When I caught up with Joyce in the mess area she said “rain brings blessings. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In Kenya we are blessed when it rains.” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>How true that is.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The Askari walked me to the mess area and I decided to hang out there until dinner or until the rain stopped. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It lightened up a bit but never really stopped. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That didn’t happen before dinner, so I just stayed and ate with Mike the manager again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I met a couple from Newfoundland who were also long-time Bruins fans, so we swapped some stories about the good old days.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Dinner tonight was french onion soup, a stuffed pepper with mashed potato for me (the rest of the group had beef), a cheese plate and a mango profiterole. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was a nice end to the day.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">As I sit here at 11:20 pm, I am satisfied, happy, energized and over the moon at how my day and indeed my safari ended. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I have been blessed by the safari gods here in Kenya once again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I still have one game drive left with Twala, but anything now is just a bonus. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I can’t imagine how we could improve on today.</span></span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-15125348176763347612024-01-19T14:32:00.004-05:002024-01-20T04:30:52.794-05:0024 hour cat-trick<p><span style="font-family: verdana;"> 19 Jan 2024</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It was warm enough when we returned last night that I opted not to have the front flaps zipped shut. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The air was nice and clear and since I wouldn’t be cold and it didn’t seem to be about to rain, I just figured why not. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I slept really well, heard lions in the distance, but shortly before my alarm went off the lions were here in the valley. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were close. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It made me second guess my decision to keep the flaps open! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala said they were across the valley (maybe 1/8 mile) but still…. He suspected they were two young males from Ol Kinyei Conservancy who’d recently been forced out of their pride. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He could tell they were young and inexperienced because their roars were clipped off at the end; he said they were lacking follow-through of a mature male. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Too funny.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We headed out at 6 am and there was good visibility and no fog to speak of. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was nearly 90 minutes of nothing but a hippo or two and some plains game (translation: no cats). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The sky started to clear up and we were seeing blue sky and sun for the first time this week, according to Twala. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This gorgeous weather would last through the afternoon and help to dry up a lot of the puddling everywhere.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I was so honed in on finding lions that when we pulled up to a sighting with a bunch of vehicles around it, Twala said to look between the cars. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I saw beige fur and immediately thought lions, but instead it was the cheetah Nashipae and her four 5-month old cubs! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She is a social media sensation! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was so psyched. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Nashipae was cleaning her cubs and one returned the favor. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had trouble confirming there were still 4 because they were piled up on each other a bit. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Finally they all settled down to nap. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala says she hasn’t successfully hunted in 4 (now 5) days, so they’re all hungry. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She was eyeing the horizon behind us but with too many zebra there, she wasn’t going to be able to snatch a gazelle without them alerting them all. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We rotated off the sighting to let others have a chance with her but the longer the cubs slept and Nashipae acted indifferent to the gazelles, more people left. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We took another turn with her and then went for breakfast.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Bush breakfast was good, my favorite thing being homemade chocolate granola bars, they were incredible! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Also had a hard boiled egg and some granola with yogurt. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And more coffee….I think I’m living on Kenyan coffee and Gordon’s gin. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Not that there’s anything wrong with that….</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We returned to her after breakfast and they’d all moved since we left, with the four cubs now asleep under one little tree and Nashipae under another nearby. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She was eyeing the horizon but two huge herds of cattle were being moved through so she was unlikely to try to hunt while they were around.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">My vehicle mate asked to try another night drive tonight and I told Twala I’m not interested. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was too tired last night and I’d rather relax here and get a good night’s sleep.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I took a shower after the morning drive and downloaded a few photos. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m really pleased with this camera but think I still have a lot of work to do, more to learn. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Paul Goldstein, a wildlife photographer I follow and who owns this camp, is here with a small group. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Those folks just left so I may try to pick his brain later tonight. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In my head I have mapped out the next 13 months really working on my skills (and maybe either getting a different lens or a second camera body…) so that when I’m back here next year, I’m far better at this than I am now. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A girl’s gotta have goals.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Lunch today was cold lentil soup, veggie burgers (to die for! No mushroom or beans, all veg and mozzarella cheese!) and a delicious cole slaw. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was an amazing strawberry mousse. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They are really trying to fatten me up here.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">My little rock hyrax friend is back on the porch. Yesterday as I tried to nap he sat on the porch staring at me through the screen. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>If I went out to talk to him he acted interested. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When I went back to bed he brought a second friend along to watch me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He’s out there now waiting for me to hop into bed for my nap, I think!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Just read on social media that Nashipae hunted while we were at lunch, so she and the cubs have eaten after nearly 5 days. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>PHEW! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m sad we missed it but more happy for her and the kids.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We headed back out at 4. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The first thing of interest that we came upon was a jackal that had a hoof and lower leg bone of a buffalo. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was chewing on it like a dog would a bone. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We scared it a bit when we shut off the truck, and it grabbed the leg, which was larger than himself, and ran off, right into 3 other jackals. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It dropped the leg and started an impressive bout of growling which scared the other three off so it was allowed to enjoy it in peace.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Another stop was to watch two baboons courting. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala pointed out that the females’ bums are bright pink when they are in heat. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As we drove up a male was picking at the bright pink bottom of a female, and as we got closer they moved for a bit of privacy next to a bush. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>While we never saw the act itself, it is clear they were on a first date of sorts, grooming each other intensely and really looking each other over very carefully. </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Not long after, we came upon three lions (YAY! FINALLY!) and it turns out these are three from the Ilksiausiau breakaway pride. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That was one of the massive prides from my visit last year, now broken into two parts, the breakaway is 17 of the originals. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala says they are about 13-14 months old now so they would have been 2-3 months old when I was last here and it is very likely I have photos of them as cubs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m going to try to match whisker patterns on these three with the ones I saw last year when I get home.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">All three were covered in flies on their chest, belly and nether-regions. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The guy sharing my vehicle with me thought it was disgusting but Twala explained that that’s actually good. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They aren’t nuisance flies but serve the purpose of cleaning the lions. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They eat remnants of any kill that get stuck in the fur as well as anything the lion may secrete, like blood or urine, so they serve to keep the lion clean and healthy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I did not know that! </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We made a pass around the area to try to find more of the pride but came up empty.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Coming down the hill we saw a vehicle from another camp stuck in some very deep mud. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The guide was not very experience and just needed a tow, so Twala hitched up and dragged him out. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It only took a few minutes.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It was not that much longer after that that we came across the breakaway group for the Sampu Enkare pride. They had already splintered off last year, I think. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This was the oldest female and two younger lionesses. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were just sitting looking about casually. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Suddenly, one of the females got up and walked past and behind us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Another followed a bit behind. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We backed up and rode alongside the first lioness. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That cat was on a mission! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We looped around a large patch of small trees and down a decline. At the very bottom of the decline was a very large harem of impala and their male. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>By the time we got to the bottom, all 40 or so impala knew something was up and coming down the hill. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were all staring uphill and were very, very uptight.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Twala saw the lions stop about 3/4 of the way down the hill and just sit i front of a bush in broad daylight. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was half paying attention because I still hadn’t figured out what was about to happen when Twala said “she’s coming” and at just about the same second I noticed impala start to flee to our right, the same direction the lioness was headed. </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I don’t feel like she really planned it out well or really was fully into doing it because it did seem like the whole thing was a bit half-hearted after her concerted walk down the hill. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The impala panicked and alarm called for several minutes after the attempt. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The lioness just stood there as if she didn’t understand what had just happened. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She turned and looked up hill, and slowly meandering down was the other younger lioness. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She missed the show and a chance at dinner. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I wonder if she was meant to help hunt.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">While it was great to finally see lions (my favorite), I’m really shocked by how few we’ve seen and how tough it’s been to find them, when in February it was lions everywhere, to the exclusion of every other cat.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">By now the wind had shifted, the air felt cooler and the sky started to thicken and turn gray. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As absolutely beautiful as the day was, it was quickly looking to turn diabolical. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I sort of hinted that maybe we should go back but there was a creepy orange-red sun going down and Twala thought we could make it to our sundowner spot to get silhouette photos in front of it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So we did. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This is where I came to appreciate the full meaning of a sky being “pregnant with rain” because I really felt like if I reached up and pricked one of the clouds with a pin, I’d just get hit with a deluge. Where the sky hadn’t turned black already, it was a weird yellow. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Those clouds were about to unleash on us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I could feel how heavy the air was with rain on the way.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We skipped putting the roof back on because Twala thought we’d make it back to camp before it started (he was right). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I opted to stay in the common area until dinner rather than venture back to my tent. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>By now the lightning had started. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But oddly, no rain ever hit camp. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And no thunderstorm ever emerged. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So strange.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Dinner tonight was mushroom on toast starter, baked fish sticks and fries for entree and a small pear filled with pomegranate for dessert. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>My vehicle mate and I ate with Mike the temporary manager and Paul the camp owner. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was great conversation.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I took a Bitter Lemon back to my tent with me and blogged, barely keeping my eyes open by 10:30. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One more full day out there. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Lewa seems so long ago now!</span></span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-25993346409548637862024-01-18T06:37:00.001-05:002024-01-19T06:38:14.536-05:00Back home in the Mara!<p><span style="font-family: verdana;"> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">18 Jan 2024</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The days I change camps are always a challenge for me for some reason and can even be difficult when I have a really good guide with whom I’ve connected. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Today was going to be tough. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>After spending basically all day for 3 days with Peter, and sharing some incredible sightings, I really didn’t want to go. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I still had lions to find and a cheetah to see hunt! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But alas, it was time to move on to the Mara.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The overnight was quieter than it has been. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I still heard lions but they weren’t as close as they were previous nights. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I felt like they weren’t where we left them at the end of yesterday’s drive either. That was pretty close to camp.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We still managed to do an early morning game drive even though I was leaving on an early flight. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was up at 5 to pack and get dressed. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We took my luggage with me and I had a packed breakfast that I ate quickly at the airstrip (cinnamon roll, granola bar, hard boiled egg, frittata and OJ). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had my grab and go coffee on the game drive.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Because it was overcast overnight, it was warmer this morning and no mist had settled at ground level, so we could see all around us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Immediately we returned to where we left the lions and the plain was entirely devoid of any sign of life. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Not just no lions, but no animals of any type. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was strange in its vacancy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>After maybe 20 minutes, we turned off the engine and waited. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And we heard a roar. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And another. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Both of us cocked our heads to try to pick up which direction they came from. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And then we turned and headed that way. It sounded not immediately close but not too far either. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We got to where Peter thought we’d find them and stopped again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Another roar, slightly more to the right than we were, but still not so close. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We tried again there. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This time when we turned the engine off, the roars were quite a ways off and not close enough to get to, find the lions, and make it to the conservancy gate to leave for the airstrip. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Maybe they were just giving me enough of a tease to want to come back. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I already do.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">On the way out of the conservancy, we saw a helicopter and heavy equipment with transfer cages for the black rhino that Ol Pejeta is relocating to another conservancy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Both Ol Pejeta and Lewa (where I was before this) have large black rhino populations that there are almost too many for the area, so they are giving some to a conservancy that has none. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That translocation was happening today. Ami Vitale, the wildlife photographer who has documented the northern white rhinos’ plight, was here to shoot this for a documentary later. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This is really a rhino conservation success story. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Ultimately, I think they’d like the chain of conservancies from Ol Pejeta to Lewa to Loisaba to be the largest rhino conservation land anywhere, which would be an impressive feat.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It takes about 45 minutes to get to the airstrip in Nanyuki. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The wait for the plane wasn’t long. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was already there, we were just waiting for the pilots to show up. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Peter and I brainstorm what my next itinerary should be. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve given up pretending this will be the last safari. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It can’t be. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This is the only place for me, why am I kidding myself.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">With little fanfare an airstrip worker takes my bag. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Peter and I say until next year and I board the plane with Bob and Sue (two other guests from my camp) and there are two other stops to pick up guests before we get to the Mara. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was turning hot and very sunny when I left Nanyuki but as we flew south the clouds were building and at times I couldn’t see the ground. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As we descended into the Mara any time the sun hit a patch of ground all I could see was water. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The stories of the biblical amounts of rain they have been getting here appear to be true.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">When we land, the plane leaves a deep impression into the soft wet earth. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But we’ve made it and I say out loud “I’m back in my happy place”.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">There’s a momentary panic as it seems that no one from my camp is here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We did leave 1/2 hour earlier from Nanyuki, but usually the airline communicates that out. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A guide from another camp calls for me and watches my luggage while I use the toilet. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When I come back to him, Twala is there. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He greats me with a big smile and a hug. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>NOW I feel like I’m home. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He remembers my family and my cats, asks how everyone is doing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Asks what I’m hoping to see and then adds “other than cats?” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I mention the cheetah moms with the cubs and he said there are two now in the conservancy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Hallelujah!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We get to camp and I’m greeted by Mike the manager. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>No Minnie!! I can’t ascertain whether she’s on leave or gone, because Anita was going to phone her last night to let her know I was on the way! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I recognize a lot of other staff faces though. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m shown to the furthest tent from the common area with the most expansive view of the valley. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I can see zebra on the hill across the way and hear hyena down below. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I have hyrax sitting and watching me in bed as I type my siesta away.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Everything was a bit confusing as the staff were juggling a large party that was leaving and the owner who was just leading that group. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He’s a photographer and one I admire on social media, so it was neat to meet him. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He was showing me some of his work on his laptop which was cool.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Twala says both mother cheetahs with 4 cubs are still in the conservancy and doing fine. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One made a kill this morning, the other hasn’t for four days so she’s ready. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m sharing a vehicle and guide with one other solo person.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Lunch today was an avocado and beet tagine that was to.die.for! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They had asian bao buns stuffed with tuna, pickles and carrots for me, rice and a celery/apple/feta salad. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was a macerated pear, not sure in what but it was tasty.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We headed out on the afternoon drive with the though of trying to find one of the cheetahs with cubs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala headed in that general direction and then got a call that a mother leopard and cub had been spotted and it was decision time: either the sure thing of the leopards or searching for the cheetahs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We decided to go for leopard.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Over some muddy terrain that Twala seemed to really enjoy surfing through with the Land Rover, we finally arrived to find the mother Sanguet (sp?) who is a 10 year old mom with her fourth cub, who is about 4 months old. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were standing just outside some scrub brush, near a tree where she’d stashed not one, but two impala kills. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The cub was behind her playing in a bush by itself. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Mom finally started to saunter over to the audience of vehicles facing her (sadly, about 11 of them! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Better than in the public reserve, but more than should be here in the conservancy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She kept looking over her shoulder at the cub as if to say “you coming kid?” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Finally the cub followed, and I managed to get some shots I’m very happy with of the two strolling together and then the cub jumping on mom and playing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was a kid being a kid for sure.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The cub went up the tree and disappeared a bit from view and I could hear it eating what was left of the carcass up there. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>After a bit it came back down. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Mom <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>rested at the base of the tree, or tried to, until three guinea fowl sounded the alarm and boldly walked around her. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This leopard was beyond annoyed. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She sat there hissing and looking altogether discontent. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Finally, like most cats with self-respect, she got up and walked off. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She wasn’t putting up with that racket taunting her while she tried to relax. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So off she went back into the bush from where she’d come. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That lasted maybe 5 minutes until she came back out and went up the tree herself for a bit of a meal. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>All in all a really good sighting and I”m pleased with my camera from what I can tell doing quick downloads.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">My vehicle mate suddenly got it in his head that he wanted to do a night drive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He asked me about it and I said normally they plan that ahead (like more than an hour’s notice) because you go back early from the afternoon drive, eat early, and head back out at 8. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was already 6:45. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>God love Twala though, he got on the radio and started making it happen. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He asked if I wanted to go, and I really didn’t, but I also had intense fear of missing out, so I did.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We headed to a plain for a sundowner. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Despite it being really overcast all day, it looked like the sun was going to make an appearance for sunset. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And it did. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The only problem with the sundowner was no one packed one for me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I thought it was weird that no one asked what I wanted, but I assumed they had that on record somewhere from last time. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was fine, I ate some nibbles and drank my water. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But Twala snuck off with his back turned and I suspected he was madly texting away. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Not 15 minutes later, we moved on and pulled up next to another vehicle from camp and he got out and made me a G&T. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Huge points to him!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We got back to camp and ate almost immediately. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I didn’t even go back to my tent. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Thursdays are African cuisine, so for me there was a veggie coconut stew with seasonal veg, a green banana casserole (excellent!) and then a mashed potato/kidney bean/butter bean dish that was actually really good and very filling. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We’d had a sweet potato coconut milk soup starter that was quite good. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was a small donut with a dab of ice cream. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was all really well done. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It amazes me what they can do in a bush kitchen!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The night drive was not nearly as exciting as those I’ve done before (translation: no cats). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The only real score for me was a white tailed mongoose, which I’d never seen before. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We did see some hares, bat eared foxes and jackals. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The jackals were running off with a baby thompsons gazelle they’d just snatched. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I ended up falling asleep in the car and not having the energy to finish this blog last night. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We got back around 10 and I was safely asleep by 10:30 after a quick shower.</span></span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-71446496425697401152024-01-17T04:07:00.003-05:002024-01-18T04:13:06.878-05:00Funny how things play out….<p><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">17 Jan 2024</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">While I slept really well and feel much more myself, and more intestinally stable, I still managed to hear lions coming from at least 4 different directions overnight, so they are most definitely out there. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The challenge we would have this morning is that the fog that settles so low to the ground is an immense impediment to finding these very-close-by lion on our pre-dawn game drive. Until the sun is up and starts to burn the air off, you are stuck with guessing where the noise was when you last heard it, and hoping that the lions are still there by the time you get there.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We left at 6 am again and were pretty blind for the first 90 minutes of the day. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Interestingly, I could see blue sky overhead and even see Mt. Kenya quite clearly in the distance, it was just the immediate ground level that was socked in with this dense mist. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The days I’ve been here in Ol Pejeta, once the morning warms up it gets hot in the sun, and it feels good. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s just this darn fog messing up our game drives.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We decided at one point to sit and just listen, hoping that they’d roar again and give us a clue. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A lion version of Marco Polo, maybe? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We could see the mist starting to burn off and more animals became visible to us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But no sound from the lions at all at this point. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We followed some jackals and hyenas, thinking maybe there’d been a kill they would move in on or just come from, and we also headed in the direction that some startled looking plains game were facing, to no avail. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So we kept driving and driving. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We’d stop for things like giraffe (the first 5 I’ve seen here, reticulated) or eland. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Finally we started to head for a clearing for breakfast. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Peter got a call from another guide, Albert, that he’d found lions, and he told Peter where they were. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Peter said we’d eat and go back that way. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That was the plan, anyway. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>You know how all the best made plans go though, and this IS safari after all. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Land of the unexpected.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We ate and had a nice chat about weather in Boston and how we handle snow (he could not fully understand until I explained it a few times!). Breakfast was the same as yesterday except the cinnamon buns were swapped out for little star shaped fried donuts. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>All good.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">So we loaded the Land Rover back up with our picnic breakfast wares and off we went in the direction we’d just come from. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Up and over small inclines and declines. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was merrily humming to myself about getting to the lions when Peter screeched to a stop with a “WHOA” and out our right-hand window, practically in the road, but absolutely in a clearing so that we would not miss him was a cheetah.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Now, for the uninitiated about safari and in particular this part of Kenya, two cats are very very hard to spot here: leopard and cheetah. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The numbers aren’t as high as in the Mara, they’re much more shy around vehicles and the landscape is low shrubby, scrub bush, so not really ideal for spotting them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But here he was, a gorgeous cheetah, and here we were, all alone. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And don’t forget, we saw the leopard on my first night here!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Peter turned to me with a big smile and said “good things happen to good people.” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I told him “you and I are turning out to be a lucky pair!” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He radioed one of the other camp guides and he wasn’t picking up, so Peter called him instead and left a message on his voicemail. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We would sit here until the guide and his guests got here and then decide what we were going to do. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As much as this sounds like a waste of time, waiting out a cheetah is my speciality it seems. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I once spent an entire day waiting for two cheetahs to hunt. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was more than ready for this. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’d been training for this!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Suddenly, the cheetah got up and moved out of the beating down sunshine and headed under a small bush. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We positioned ourselves near him, close enough that I could stare in wonder at him, but with enough distance that he could see all around him. He was scanning the horizon and otherwise acting all cheetah-like. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>More time passed. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Meanwhile, one vehicle unknown to Peter pulled up, snapped a couple of photos and left. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Clearly, they didn’t realize how momentous this was.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Even more time passed (I’m guessing now around a half hour). The other guide hadn’t returned the call. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Suddenly our cheetah got up and started to move through the grass. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Now, I haven’t mentioned it but the grass here is not nearly as tall or as thick as it was in Lewa. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We can actually see into it more easily. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So that was good. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The cheetah was intent on moving in a certain direction and Peter said there was a ravine that is usually a good place for a cheetah to hunt impala or other gazelles. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And the cheetah looked like that was what he was going to do. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So we trailed him through the grass (thankfully we were in an area that allowed off-roading, otherwise this would have ended nearly an hour earlier!)</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Peter finally got the guide on the phone and gave him directions, but telling him to head down the road and turn in the direction of a phone antenna on the horizon. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Here you can’t really say “take a left at the fourth bush”. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Finally the cheetah laid down under another bush. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We positioned ourselves so that he had a view of the ravine which was indeed full of impala, gazelles and the like. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And then the guide arrived. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And oddly, after taking maybe 5 minutes worth of photos, they left. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>All that work for that?</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It was time to have an honest conversation with Peter. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I wanted him to know where I stood. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I said “I turn over complete control to you. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>You can read this cat. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I am worried about rain in the Mara and afraid I won’t even see cheetah there. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So I’m prepared to wait this out, whatever it takes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Good thing I used the bush toilet at breakfast!” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Before I could even finish my speech, he said quite seriously “we will wait.” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And I kicked back, took my poncho from this morning and rolled it into a pillow for my back, put my feet up on the seat next to me and leaned against the door with my camera at the ready, staring at this cat. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I knew this could be over in minutes or hours. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was ready. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Peter was ready. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Now all we needed was for the cat to be ready. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And then the call came….</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Peter speaks Swahili to the other guides on the radio. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Some words I know, like words for most of the animals, and then there are some words that must not translate to Swahili so they just say them in English. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But in the rapid, emotional sounding flow of Peter’s Swahili, I heard “cheetah” and “duma” (Swahili for cheetah) and also “fuel injection” and “pump”. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Whatever it was, it wasn’t good, but somehow I felt like he was making a <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>case for us to stay put. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He turned to me and said “another vehicle has broken down on the way to the airstrip and they are requesting that we rescue them.” </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Gulp.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I then pretended to interpret his next transmission over the radio to be something along the lines of “try again please, we have a hot cheetah on our hands.” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But no luck. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As lead guide, he had to go. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And if anything gave me any consolation at all, it was two things: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>he felt worse than I did about it, and I know that safari has a funny way of paying you back. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>All things happen for a reason and whether we see the karma return to us today or another day, that we left to help will bring good karma to us. Somehow, someday.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">So off we went zipping back on the roads. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I ended up transferring to other guests’ vehicle and their guide while Peter went to save the day. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Unfortunately my new temporary guide was the one who came and left the sighting quickly, so no chance we were going back to it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Instead they were going to the chimpanzee sanctuary, which I’d already visited in 2014. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I went anyway, and was somewhat half-hearted about it until I remembered it was a Jane Goodall project. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It wasn’t a great experience because we arrived just as all the chimps were being fed lunch, so the rangers had to beg two chimps to join us at the fence. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(If anyone reading this is planning to visit, it really is good, I remember it being so, just avoid going close to lunch!)</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We then headed back to camp where I had a Stoney Tangawizi to soothe my soul and chatted with Anita a bit. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Turns out the vehicle wasn’t broken after all, and Peter was able to turn it over on the first try, which is good since it means I’ll get him and my private vehicle back for my last drive tonight. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(Have I mentioned that I’ve had a private vehicle for all but the very brief encounter with the Floridians? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Yes, I could get used to this!)</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Lunch was good today. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We had a cold lentil soup, veggie kabobs, tomato and celery salad, tabouleh and a seeded pumpkin bread. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was a lemon cheesecake. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had a “Baraka Shandy” (named after the blind rhino we saw the other day) of ginger ale and lemonade.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Anita says my flight to the Mara is at 8:30 am tomorrow. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We’ll go out on an early drive and head straight to the airport, I guess! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m really, really hoping the rain they’ve had lets up. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I spent lunch starting to pack and sort out my clothes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Back out at 3:45! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Hopefully we find our cheetah again! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><Break for afternoon drive></span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The afternoon drive felt very much like this morning’s drive except that it <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>wasn’t the weather not cooperating. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I met Peter at the Land Rover and he apologized again for leaving the cheetah, as if he could do anything about that! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I said, “let’s put it behind us and know that someday we’ll get rewarded for leaving, who knows when, but we will.” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He seemed good with that.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">He decided we’d go try to find the lions that my temporary guide had found earlier today while we were with the cheetah. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Remember he’s the one that was so hard to raise on the radio. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Well, we thought we knew where he meant for us to look for the lions, assuming they’d slept all afternoon and were where he left them to come to us at the cheetah. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Given that my cats go down for a nap after breakfast and don’t surface again until dinner, it is entirely possible! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We explored as much of the area that where we thought we should be, going around and around bushes, through thick grass, mowing over small shrubs, all in the name of finding a pile of sleeping lions. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Peter radioed the guide and he wasn’t answering. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Once, twice, three time, a dozen more, no answer. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Finally we gave up, both on looking for lions <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>and trying to raise this guy to get more details. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We were easily 90 minutes into looking with no luck.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We went off to another part of the conservancy looking for different lions, or anything really. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We saw a few more herds of elephants and a trio of big bulls posing beautifully in front of Mt Kenya. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But no lions. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We drove up to a flat plain with a view and had our sundowners. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was an overcast night, no sunset per se, but the conversation was good and we had a nice chat. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Suddenly we heard on the radio someone trying to reach Peter….lions!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Never have two people packed up the snacks, empties and little picnic table and boarded the Land Rover so fast. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I told him I was holding on but to do what it took to get there. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And he did. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was maybe 10 minutes to the lions, but we’d lost so much light. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Headlights were needed and almost everything was a shadow if you could see it at all, and we didn’t have night drive lights to help us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But when we pulled up, our headlights revealed three big males and three lionesses and they were cats on a mission, it looked like they were going to hunt. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In the dark.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Peter moved us a head of the lions as they walked across the plain, and set us up perpendicular to where they’d be walking, illuminating the space in front of us with headlights. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One lioness stopped to scan the plains and I felt bad for her. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I didn’t want to reveal her to the plains game that was ahead of her, so I asked Peter to turn out the headlights. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And that’s how we ended up sitting in the dark and how one of the coolest/scariest moments on safari happened.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">While my eyes were adjusting, my hearing got more intense. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was trying to pay strict attention to sounds since I couldn’t see anything. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was killing me not to know what was going on ahead of us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Suddenly I heard the grass to my left start to rustle, and it got louder and louder until I realized it was a lion walking…..right.toward.us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And just as I realized that, I could make out the first big male, dark mane and lighter body, no more detail that that, passing maybe 15 feet in front of us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And then the next one came past, and the third one. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Holy cow. </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Peter heard the zebras scatter, so now there was nothing for the cats to hunt, they’d been spotted. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Presumably they’d sacked out up ahead of us, but not before the three boys let out a chorus of roaring vibratos, strong enough for me to feel it in my bones. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I couldn’t help but flip on my phone’s video recorder, and just record this moment in the dark. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was intense. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>My adrenaline was pumping. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>WHY does Kenya do this to me??</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We left the lions and plan to return early tomorrow morning to see if they’re still there. Fingers crossed.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Returned to camp and drinks around the fire pit with the rest of the guests. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There are 6 new guests here since lunch and they were declaring victory for finding the cheetah who’d just hunted. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Ugh, that stings…</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Dinner tonight was a spinach mousse over a cheddar cheese sauce, vegetable Wellington, which was delicious, and a fresh fruit pavlova. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Really very tasty!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I can’t believe I’m already two camps into this trip. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It has flown by, but when I look back on all I’ve done and seen, it seems so much longer. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And the best part is, I feel so much more like myself than I have in several months. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s good to feel like me again.</span></span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-29269871876617455482024-01-16T04:08:00.002-05:002024-01-18T04:10:33.059-05:00Well, I did say I wanted to see rhinos!<p><span style="font-family: verdana;">16 Jan 2024</span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;">I lost wifi the last two days in Ol Pejeta, so I’m back posting these.</span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Last night I felt rough. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I feel like I ought to go back and fill in the edges around yesterday’s blog because I charged through it only to get to sleep. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The intestinal distress had kicked up and it was freezing flipping cold here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There were three blankets and a comforter on the bed as well as a large hot water bottle when I got back, and that was still not enough to get warm. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I hugged the hot water bottle all night. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>No, this is not typical for this time of year. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This is climate change, my friends.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I took a Zithromax to try to head off my issues and shut out the light early. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I slept well, but I’m also back in lion country and remember waking 4 times to hear them near camp roaring their heads off. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I liked that, no worries.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Coffee was delivered in a to-go thermal mug at 5:30 (what took them so long, I’ve wanted this on every safari for the last 10 years!) and I was picked up and walked to the Land Rover at 6 (back where I can’t walk around unaccompanied in the dark; lions you know). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was cool enough for my fleece and the flannel lined poncho in the Land Rover, as well as the hot water bottle on the seat. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But it’s still a far cry from the 20 degree weather at home!</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We headed out in the direction of the last lion calls. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We finally came upon one big male who had just flopped indiscriminately in the middle of a clearing next to a mud bath. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s as if he had been walking along teh savannah and said “ah, to hell with it, I’ll nap here”. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That was before sunrise. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He won’t have lasted long once the sun came up over Mt. Kenya.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Sunrise here is neat because it gets light long before you actually see the sun due to Mt. Kenya. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There’s the painted sky that lasts until the orb finally crests over the mountain and lights everything properly. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It is just beautiful. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There was also a fog that had settled at ground level that gave everything an ethereal feel. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was really pretty.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We came upon a small herd of elephants in front of Mt. Kenya and we stopped to watch them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The matriarch of the group paused, then started to approach us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was in the back-most window on her side. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She kept coming closer and closer and for a moment I felt panicked but then I just relaxed as I looked her right in the eye and whispered “good morning”. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She was easily within 10 feet of me and she held the connection. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I could see the scratches in one of her tusks and the mud that had filled them. I could see the remnants of some greens stuck to the point of the other tusk. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Finally she flicked her trunk at me and stepped aside, our connection broken. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was an amazing, sobering and very special moment. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>My eyes filled when she walked off. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had been given a gift.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I still had the young American newlyweds (Floridians, I don’t need to say anything more) but thankfully they were moving on after bush breakfast. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had to let it go, but they had no safari etiquette and he talked louder to our guide, thinking he would be better understood. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m not sure they were aware how special last night’s leopard sighting was or this morning’s elephants were. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s a shame.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Bush breakfast this morning was at a river crossing under a pretty yellow fever tree. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had frittata, mini pancakes, a hard boiled egg and museli and a dab of homemade yogurt, oh and the pastry of the day which was a delectable cinnamon bun. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Man, that was delicious!</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I had so many sightings of rhinos today that I can’t remember the order. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Most were mom and calf pairs, both black and white species. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One pair of whites was just so relaxed and calm, they didn’t give us a second glance. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We watched them graze for a while in an area called Zebra Plain, this immense flat plain that goes on for as far as the eye can see in any direction. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They ate for quite a while and then moved to a dusty clearing and just stood there. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And stood. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And stood. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The calf laid down. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The mother continued to stand. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Peter said, “the mother wants to wallow” and he motioned to the mudbath about 30 feet from us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So we decided to wait it out. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>After another 10 minutes or so he spotted a pair of black rhinos about 1/4 mile away, so we moved on to them for just a few minutes before they laid down to nap. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We turned around and headed back to where the whites were, and they were both in the mudbath! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>How Peter knew this would happen is a mystery!</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Another memorable rhino sighting came on the afternoon drive, when we found a massive male white rhino grazing on his own. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>White rhinos are sociable, so it would be normal to see this one with others, but he wasn’t. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He was grazing and I was taking photos. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Suddenly Peter started the vehicle and we left, without him asking me “are you good?” as he normally does before we move on. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I didn’t think much of it, other than that it was a short sighting and maybe he saw something else to move on quickly to. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>After a few minutes, he said “sometimes I just don’t trust white rhinos even though they are supposed to be calmer.” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So his gut had told him to move on.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I had a whole bunch of elephant sightings today which were just so relaxing to watch. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We transferred the Floridians to the car heading to their next camp at the marsh area, so we stayed there and watched the wildlife. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There was a huge troop of baboons there, as well as lots of impala and a small herd of elephants, all coexisting peacefully. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I could quite honestly sit and watch elephants eat all day, the chill way they pull up grass and transfer it from ground to mouth is mesmerizing.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">At lunch there was a small family of a mom and 3 younger eles who were across the river from camp. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were drinking at the watering hole and then headed off, but not before the mother rumbled and acted all in a dither about something, as if she saw something that disturbed her. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>After lunch when I went out with Peter, I’m fairly certain we saw them again, only with one more family member, and Peter thinks the extra member was a male recently kicked out of the family (to prevent inbreeding) and that his returning upset the mother. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Every time the family moved on as it grazed, the male would try to tag along, and sometimes the mom or one of the older siblings would push him away.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">One of the last groups of elephants we saw was a herd of 9 plus one massive bull grazing in the south side of the conservancy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The male was in musth and not so patiently waiting for one of the females to be in estrus. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He was agitated and three times took an aggressive step towards us, which Peter thwarted by starting the Land Rover. That noise got him to stop and rethink his next move. It was a bit unsettling that he was so wound up that we agitated him, but that is love in nature. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Peter only let him try that twice before we decided to move on though. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>No sense poking the bear (or bull elephant, in this case!)</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">At one point this morning, Peter stopped in the middle of the road and pointed out a dung beetle rolling a ball of dung across the road. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I sat and watched it because there appeared to be a female clinging on to it while the male pushed it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The dung had been smoothed to a perfect round ball and once the male found the safest spot for it, he started to dig a hole for it and then the female would deposit eggs into it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The eggs would be fed by the dung apparently. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>To see a beetle pushing a ball many times its size was what captivated me the most though. Nature is amazing.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Our sundowner was at a hyena den. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We first came upon two sub-adult hyenas just lying next to a hole. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Peter said the parents go off and “rest” away from the kids all day and leave a couple of the older kids in charge of the younger hyenas in the clan. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I didn’t see any other kids, but the longer we sat there, more younger hyenas came up out of the ground from another hole maybe 50 feet away. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They all piled together either for safety or to keep warm while they waited for their parents to return. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We left after sunset, so I didn’t see the parents.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Lunch today was a really fresh lemon avocado soup with a “make your own pizza” and a just-right pineapple frozen yogurt. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I am certainly eating well. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>After lunch I did yoga (yay for Peloton connecting here!) and had a shower. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>My hip had really bothered me since the hike from hell, so getting everything moving again really helped it.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Dinner today was red snapper with a pineapple coconut sauce, brown rice and stir fry veg. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was a wonderful chocolate brownie with whipped cream and a cherry tulle. </span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s1"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It was not nearly as cold after dinner as it was the night before. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I did not need the several layers of blankets on the bed or the hot water bottle, thankfully. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I did fall asleep while writing this though, so this is being finished at lunch on the following day!</span></span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-7471489576869172122024-01-15T14:45:00.006-05:002024-01-15T14:45:43.719-05:00Last of their kind<p><span style="font-family: verdana;"> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-weight: bold;">15 Jan 2024</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I slept reasonably well but woke with a bout of intestinal distress, whether from the anti-malarial or the copious amount of veggies I’ve eaten in the last couple days, I’m not sure. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I feel fine, just gurgly. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had another shower and started to pack before breakfast, then met Johnson and some of the other folks for a late breakfast at 8. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Most everyone I knew here has left or is leaving, so I’d be lonely if I stayed, but I really don’t want to go. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This camp is lovely, welcoming and more than comfortable. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I could easily take up residence.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I had scrambled eggs, a muffin, mango and pineapple for breakfast, alone with a cup of coffee. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had a nice chat with one of the camp managers Daniella, who works for Tauck tours when she’s not here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It is interesting to hear the many stories of a tour manager, and reinforces my hunch that I could never, ever deal with people all the time like that. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She said she loves to travel, except when she’s leading tours. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I kind of figured that. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Keep your happy place your happy place, and don’t make it a job.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Johnson drove me to the gate of this conservancy where I was picked up by someone at Kicheche for the rest of the drive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It took about an hour to leave the conservancy itself. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When I gave him his tip, I also gave him a 4Ocean beaded bracelet that I’d brought for each guide. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I explained to him that by buying that, it funds the cleanup of a pound of ocean trash, and he was very touched by it and asked me to put it on him. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He was such a nice guy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I always hate leaving my really good guides, and I will certainly miss the life of luxury at Lewa Wilderness, such an amazing camp.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Peter will be my guide at Kicheche Laikipia. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He is the lead guide here and coincidentally I’d just seen an Instagram post about some great sightings he’s had with guests lately. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We drove the two hours on a highway (40 mph) through Nanyuki, the major town here, and then to Ol Pejeta Conservancy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’d been here in 2014 on my first Kenyan safari, but don’t remember much about it since it was my first stop and I was such a newbie.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">There wasn’t much to see along the way but some huts masquerading as stores with “God’s Favoured General Store” or “God’s Favoured Nail Salon”. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I did not have time to stop to inquire about how one becomes God’s Favoured anything, but you never know…</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Anita is the camp manager here and she greeted me excitedly. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We did the camp walk through and lunch was served quickly thereafter. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>My tent is similar to other Kicheche tents and is definitely a far cry from my little chalet in Lewa!! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m back to tented walls!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Lunch was a great smorgasbord for vegetarians. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A zucchini boat filled with diced veggies and cheese. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A chick pea salad. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A sweet corn salad. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Bread and cheese. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And a sugary cornet filled with cream stuck into a tree tomato (tastes like kiwi kind of!)</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The whole drive here, I was planning to seriously crash and nap after lunch but it turns out that I’m off to meet the last two northern white rhinos on the planet. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Literally the last of their species. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve been looking forward to that, so rally I will!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The trip to the rhinos was of course wonderful. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Not that I celebrate that there are only two northern white rhinos left, but what a wonderful thing the conservancy is doing by talking about it and having the rhinos serve as brand ambassadors for their cause.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We arrived and were met by a ranger who looked very familiar to me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was Zacharia, who I recognized from several Ami Vitale interviews and videos I’ve watched. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She is a renown wildlife photographer who has covered the rhinos’ story for years. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Zacharia is the keeper for the rhinos. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I told him I recognized him and how and he said Ami is actually in Kenya now to cover the rhino translocation later this week (moving rhinos from here to another conservancy because they actually have reached the limit here on numbers that are sustainable).</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Peter drove us into the rhinos’ enclosure and Zacharia called them over. It is Najin and Fatu and a third rhino, a wild born southern white rhino who was brought here to teach Najin and Fatu how to be a rhino. They’d both been raised in zoos and didn’t know how and were also eating poorly. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Fatu and her southern friend are thick as thieves and tend to bully Najin, so Najin’s horn has been left long and pointy to defend herself against the bullies, whose horns have been trimmed for her safety.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The rhinos were eagerly picking up the snacks pellets that Zacharia had dropped for them to get them close to us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Once Fatu thought all hers were gone, she came right over to me in the vehicle looking for more! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Zacharia was telling us about their behaviors and how they’re taken care of, and he answered our many questions.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">They’ve gathered dozens of embryos from Fatu and are waiting for the right time to implant them in one of six wild-born southern white rhinos who have been brought here to act as surrogates. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>What I found extremely interesting is that the scientists will determine which rhino to impregnate by bringing in a sterile male to gauge when the female is in estrus. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When he tries to mount one to mate, the scientists will implant her. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I would have thought that scientists and vets would be closely monitoring hormone levels through blood or urine testing, but apparently this is more accurate!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Once we left the girls, we visited Baraka, the blind black rhino that lives here also. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’d visited him in 2014 so I knew what to expect, but it’s still fun feeding him and scratching his ears. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He’s taken to breaking out of his enclosure overnight and knocking over trees all over the grounds. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He may be blind but he’s still mischievous!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We left the sanctuary and quickly happened upon a lion pride that was made up of a male, 4 females, 1 sub-adult male (the pride male’s son, very close to being kicked out of the pride as he ages) and 3 tiny 2 month old cubs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was smitten. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Any lion encounter is celebrated, but when there are three little ones in the mix, I’m over the moon. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I love to listen to their chirps and contented sighs as they nursed and loved to watch them play just like my cats do. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But what was really weird about this pride was the Dad was actively mating with one of the females (not the cubs’ mom). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Usually lions go off and “honeymoon” away from the pride for 5 days or so. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But not these two. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Every 5 minutes or so they were up and at it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And the male lion was not in a good move. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The cranky old guy made a couple of swats at the cubs who just wanted to say “hey daddy”. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was absolutely wonderful to start off my stay like this, even if there was so much going on it was hard to know where to look: cute cubs, grouchy dad, nuzzling sisters, mating lions. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Yikes!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We were the last to leave the lions just as it was nearly completely dark. We drove maybe 10 minutes and suddenly off the right side of the road strolled a leopard. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Yes, for a second night in a row I’m seeing a leopard in the dark! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Peter was so excited, he said he almost never sees them here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She was absolutely gorgeous and put up with us as we backed up and waited for her to pass us again, over and over. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>At one point she was sitting up tall and pretty in the middle of the street, as if she knew she was good looking. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was ecstatic.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It’s funny, I heard next to nothing in terms of overnight wildlife noise while I was in Lewa, but while typing here tonight, I’ve heard elephants, zebra and hyena. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It may not be the quiet night of sleep I’m hoping for.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Dinner tonight was gnocchi starter, fish and mashed potato croquettes for the entree and vanilla panna cotta for dessert. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was all so good!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Back for dinner late because of the leopard situation and early to bed. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We’re up and out for 6 am tomorrow.</span></span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-59809244060477721882024-01-14T15:44:00.002-05:002024-01-14T15:44:26.405-05:00The not so elusive leopard<p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Sleep is becoming better with each passing night.</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"> </span> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Last night I think I only woke very briefly twice.</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"> </span> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Both times I remember thinking that I would not get back to sleep, but I did and slept right up to the alarm for the first time.</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"> </span> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">I don’t know how my body is ok with getting up at the time it would normally be going to bed, but it is muddling through.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">This morning it was just me with Johnson, which was great. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’d told him last night I’m game for anything, but if I had to wish, it’d be lions, rhinos, gerenuk (one of the northern 5 I still haven’t seen yet) and anything else he can conjure up. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We went out at 6:30 and took breakfast with us, my thought being that would allow us to go further afield and see territory we hadn’t covered yet. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That was indeed the case.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Johnson starts every day with “today is a beautiful day”. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I asked him if he says that every day and he said that he does. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I wonder if I started to do that at home if that sort of positive affirmation would work for me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Let’s face it, I don’t have the office that he does!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We drove for a long while before we saw anything at all. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I think we passed one snoozing white rhino somewhat close to camp but other than that it was just quiet. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>No other vehicles but strangely not a lot of wildlife either. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was cold, for here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I still didn’t my fleece on, I was comfortable without it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’d guess it was probably mid 60s or so but a bit humid and really overcast. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We need the sun to warm things up a bit. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But unlike yesterday, there was no rain at all this morning.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The first wildlife we stopped for was near the marsh and it was a marsh mongoose, which Johnson said he only sees once every 6-7 years. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He was so excited about the sighting he called to tell someone about it, even though it had already scampered deeper into the marsh grass.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We came across a large sighting of zebra, both common and Grevy’s species, which was neat to see and be able to compare the two upclose. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Nearby this herd were two Besia oryx, another species of the Northern Five that I had seen before, but not this close..</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Johnson had spoken with a couple of the guides we passed along the way and heard that there were lions on the move but that they’d gone into thick grass. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He saw a ranger’s vehicle from the road and approached it, learning that the lions were right there. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But where? All we could see was waist high grass! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As we nudged a bit further, several heads popped up, including one big male, a female and about 5 of the cubs we saw on Friday evening. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The grass was really a challenge. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So much so that we missed seeing the other females and all the other cubs! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The ranger said that all 12 were here, safely under cover of the grass. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I managed a few documentary shots with the camera, but none that will be worth publishing, I think.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Driving further along Johnson saw a reticulated giraffe (another of the Northern Five) crossing the road. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Obviously familiar with the area, he knew it was heading for watering hole and set me up for a shot across from it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was perfectly positioned for the giraffe to contort itself, spreading it’s legs wide enough for its long neck to reach the water. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Hearing that giraffe gulp down gallons of water was pretty cool. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s easy to see too why they are at their most vulnerable to predation while in this position; it’s not easy to get into or out of!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Johnson then said we were in gerenuk territory and to be on the lookout. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I didn’t realize that gerenuk are not nearly as numerous as impala or other gazelles here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He speculated that there are fewer than 20 left now since they are a favorite meal of the leopards. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Yet somehow he managed to find a male with 4 females! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>These antelope are sometimes referred to as giraffe antelope because they have an antelope body and a neck long like a giraffe. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>What I think is neat about them though is that they never drink water; they get all they need from the leaves they eat. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They are also known to stand on their hind legs to reach higher leaves, but I did not see them try that today. I was surprised now that I’ve seen them because I expected them to be larger, at least the size of an impala, and they are really much smaller. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In any event, I’ve now seen all 5 of the Northern Five here at Lewa: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Somali ostrich, Grevy’s zebra, Besia oryx, reticulated giraffe and gerenuk. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Not a bad weekend’s work!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We stopped nearby the gerenuk for breakfast with a view. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The valley here is just beautiful. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I feel like I’m repeating myself but I haven’t seen a part of Kenya that is so striking and I’m not sure one could ever tire of it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve already started to miss it, and I’m not even gone yet.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Breakfast was coffee and juice, hard boiled eggs, scones, baked cheese sticks (like crackers) and skewers of fresh pineapple, mango and watermelon.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">After breakfast we made the slow drive back toward camp. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Johnson stopped the vehicle when we rounded a curve and straight ahead was a lovely white rhino and her months old calf. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They’d both just wallowed in some mud and were heading toward the tall grass. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I stood and shot out the roof of the Land Rover but then made sure to just stop and watch and appreciate this little creature and its mom. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>How absolutely blessed I am to see them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were, like other rhinos we’d seen on this trip, very relaxed and unbothered by us, but we were sure to be respectful, shut off the engine and not approach too closely also. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was a spectacular morning.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">On the way back we discussed our plan for the rest of today. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Johnson feels like the lions looked skinny and in need of a meal. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He thinks they will try to hunt tonight and he wondered if I’d want to try a night drive to find them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Part of me thinks that is daft, since we have trouble enough finding lions in this grass, but the other part of me thinks I have nothing to lose. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve had some great lion sightings already and still have 6 days in two other camps. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So the plan is lunch as usual, a walk at 4:00 followed by a shower and then an early dinner, and then we’d head out 8:00-10:00 or so for a night drive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Sounds like a plan!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Sundays in Kenya are apparently curry days (news to me!) so today’s lunch was vegetarian curry (cauliflower, carrots, chickpeas over rice), a green papaya salad with jalapeños and halumi cheese also curry style. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m not an enormous curry fan but figured I’d need to eat well to fuel the big walk. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was homemade frozen yogurt made from local berries and the farm’s own yogurt.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I ended up napping for about 20 minutes before I got dressed to hit the trails. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Silly me, thinking there were trails. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I spent a full 5 minutes debating whether to take my camera, and if so, which lens. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I also debated whether to take my wallet with passport in the event I died in an avalanche and my body needed to be identified. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I left both locked up here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Wisely.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I met Moosh’s brother and his assistant Simon (I remember his name for obvious reasons) and Nigel, the husband in one of the other UK couples visiting here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Nigel’s wife Celia got the right idea by saying “like hell” when asked if she wanted to do a walk. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’d been convinced it was “basically easy and slow” plus it was part of the package deal, walk first then night drive, so I either did this or just hung about and drank gin and tonic until it was time to go for the night drive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I really need to reconsider my life choices.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I’m fit, I thought. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>How hard can this be? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I run road races and lift weights. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I do Spinning on my off days. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Altitude shmaltitude. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>What’s 5000 feet between friends?</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">So Moosh’s brother warns us we must walk single file between him and Simon. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>No yelling, no running if you see anything scary. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Use tongue-clicks or low whistles to warn others just as the Cape buffalo is steaming you down. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Never get ahead of the gun. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Wait..what? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Yes, Moosh’s brother had the gun, which he loaded with four cartridges as soon as we were off camp property. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Gulp.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">And off we went. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>First we had to cross the river, which had two flat logs across it, through which I could see the running water below. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Already, good call that I left passport and new camera in my room. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That may have been my last smart decision of the day. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Simon had to take my hand and guide me over and Moosh’s brother and Nigel leapt like antelope across. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I would not be getting the Indiana Jones Hiking Gold Star today. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Two demerits for needing help crossing a bridge that would be illegal in the US.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">And then the climb started, up up up. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And wherever or whoever gave me the misconception that this was a neatly groomed path deserves my wrath. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We were cutting our path! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>My walking stick was moving pricker bushes, checking for aardvark holes and otherwise serving as another leg. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dang. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>At points the grass was over waist-high. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>“But wait,” you are asking yourself, “haven’t you been saying all along that lions, leopards and rhinos are getting lost in this very deep grass? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Couldn’t they be in the very same grass you are now wading through?” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Yes, my friends, that be the truth. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Gulp.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We stopped a few times to hydrate (I brought enough water this time, not like when my sister and I walked the entire Cinque Terre path sharing a bottle of Evian and a bag of peanut M&Ms) and take in the view, which of course was tremendous, but I’m fully aware by now that I can see an equally impressive view from any number of spots easily reached by vehicle.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We did see some wildlife. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A waterbuck was across the way on another hill, as were two herds of impala. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Three giraffes ended up below us, looking up as if to say “now why would you go and do that?” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Good question, my long-necked friends.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I vacillated between watching my footing and being afraid to. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I traipsed through poop identified as hyena, giraffe, impala and buffalo, and tried to avoid it where I can (these shoes don’t go back into my house anyway, they’re always banished to the basement). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I wanted to watch my footing but also did not want to be the one to see any snakes scampering away. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I prayed to all that is holy that Moosh’s brother was scaring them away before I got to them.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Various thoughts beyond snakes ran through my mind, like ticks, fire ants, stinging nettles, altitude sickness, dehydration, twisted ankles, and mental incompetence. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Try as I might, I just was not in the moment and loving it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The plan had been for Nigel to be met by his guide and intelligent wife Celia and be driven down while I climbed down with the guides. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A clap of thunder and black clouds approaching gave me all the encouragement I needed to say “do you think Johnson could pick me up at the top? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m beat.” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And so ended the 75 minute journey. </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Celia sat in the vehicle videoing us as we summited. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>“Do you know how high up we are, it took ages to drive up here!” she yelled. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I turned and looked down to find camp and my particular little cottage specks in the tree line. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>If we were already a mile high, we were easily half that more. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Gulp.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Nigel and Celia’s guide drove us about half way down to where Johnson awaited, and he took me and the guides back to camp. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>My hip is angry, my head hurts and I’m tired, but after a handful of ibuprofen, a shower and the accounting for bug bites (only 2!) I am kind of glad I did it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Once. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Onwards dinnertime.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Several hours later….dinner was lovely, yellow pepper stuffed with lots of diced, fresh veg (zucchini, onion, carrots, corn, black beans, etc.) and topped with a cheese crisp, and baked sliced tomatoes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The starter was a wonderful sweet corn soup with onion and yellow pepper. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was a slice of spice cake with a jelly and dab of cream on it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I washed the whole thing down with a dawa (vodka and honey cocktail). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>You can tell reading this that I am just dying to get to the next part…..</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The night drive. Yowza. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>With how high the grass is, I was skeptical at best. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And even at the best of times, night drives are hit or miss. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But off we went. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Johnson even gave me my own red search light to look for eyes in the grass as we drove along. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He’d found out from guides who’d just come back from the afternoon drive where they last saw lions and we headed that way. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We also had a guide Mark standing up through the roof window scanning the area, looking for the tell-tale glow of eyes looking back.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">After a short time we came across a bachelor herd of impala and they all looked nervous (said Johnson, I had no idea). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They also seemed to be looking in the direction we were heading. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>About 300 feet further, right in the middle of the road, a young hyena was just tearing into a fresh impala kill. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When we approached it, it ran off. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Johnson said a leopard would have taken it down, not a hyena, and he surmised that the hyena had forced the leopard off its kill. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He used the light and scanned the area and the leopard was still standing nearby watching. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This was a 4 year old female leopard the guides call Nala. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As we settled down and moved the light away from her (red light so as not to blind her), she started to creep back over to her dinner. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We sat and watched her for maybe 20 minutes while she ate. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The hyena sat on the opposite side of her and waited his turn. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>At one point Johnson said we should leave so the hyena could get his share, but I wanted to make sure she was satisfied, after all she did kill it! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>At last she walked off into the tall grass and the hyena quickly moved in. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Normally leopards will drag their kill up a tree and save it for later, but there were no trees nearby for her to do so.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">While we missed the actual kill, it was still an adrenaline rush to see her at night, right out in the open and be able to piece together what had happened. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>On top of it all, she was a gorgeous cat and I was happy we helped her return to her meal and get her fill.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The rest of the drive was not productive for the cats but we did see 5 huge white rhino blocking the road, one with an incredibly massive horn. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And I kept seeing hares as I flashed the side of the road with my light looking for the glowing eyes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was, in a word, a pretty special night. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One sighting like the leopard is all it takes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(My track record on night drives is now 3 for 3 when it comes to cat kills!)</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Not able to go right to sleep I sat up and chatted with the folks from Connecticut who are moving on to the Mara over my gin and tonic.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The bar is set high for the next two camps. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve seen the Big 5, the Northern 5 and had a stellar night drive in my first three days!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Going to try to sleep now. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m tired from the walk and all the excitement. I get to sleep until 7:15 tomorrow since I’ll be leaving for Ol Pejeta at 10:00. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Johnson and I will meet for breakfast at 8:00.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 19px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-10732511634387651372024-01-13T14:49:00.001-05:002024-01-13T14:49:12.048-05:00The many, but elusive, leopards<p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">I wondered whether I would regret requesting my coffee call for 6 am, but I was awake at 5:20, having slept reasonably well from about 11 onward.</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"> </span> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">I woke twice to hearing a dog barking nearby (there are a few at camp but I still confirmed that others heard them too and I didn’t just imagine it.). I also heard falling water every time I woke up, which I presumed was rain but turned out to be the small stream running beneath camp and right under my window.</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"> </span> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Like most puzzling things, nothing was clear to me until daylight.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It turns out that it did rain overnight, although not terribly much. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The day dawned overcast and stayed that way. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>On our morning game drive there were some nuisance drops, but not even enough to close the roof windows. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Johnson was aghast when I met him at 6:30 in short sleeves and crop pants. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>To me, that was just comfortable, to him it was puffer vest and scarf weather.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">One never knows what is on the agenda on any given day on safari, and you kind of have to juggle priorities as things come up. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Johnson kept saying last night that the lions looked like they were hungry and were going to hunt. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He wanted to head out to find them before they laid down for the day. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We drove for a bit in a new direction and after a while pulled up to a pungent patch of crushed grass and some jackals looking for scraps. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Indeed a kill had happened and scavengers has already cleaned up the leftovers. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But try as we might, we could not conjure up any lions in the area so drove on. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We came across a few more reticulated giraffe and saw our big boy elephant friend Boris in the distance. </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Johnson said we’d try to find rhino and shortly after he said that we came across a massive white rhino just on the side of the road. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I mean MASSIVE. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve seen them in zoos (and even done a backstage visit with them at San Diego Zoo) but never recall seeing them this big, maybe because we were so close? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We were in fact too close for me to get his whole body in the frame of my camera until he got skittish and moved back. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(Note to self: I’m definitely buying a wider angle lens for “next time”! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The 100-400 is a bit limiting on the wide end when I’m just getting too close!). </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We carried on and started driving toward a thickly wooded area in an attempt to find leopard (which often rest/eat high up in trees). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We were quickly intercepted by one of the two big male lions we saw sleeping away last night. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He was working his way down the road looking wet and bedraggled but clearly he was a cat with a mission. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Johnson pulled off road and angled us so the lion was coming right at us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The lion gave me a bit of side-eye as he passed, but he clearly had something else in mind. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We sat and watched him walk off across the savannah until the little speck on the horizon he became finally disappeared. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Johnson thinks he was headed back towards his pride. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He did not have a big full round belly that he would have had if he’d just eaten this morning, so clearly did not partake in that morning’s kill that we had just passed. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>How it all went down, and where he was headed, will remain a mystery I guess.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">This small spot of forest that we traversed was absolutely amazing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The scents alone were dizzying in their deep fragrance, like a eucalyptus minty lemongrass. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was truly captivating. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The deeper within we got, the darker and cooler it felt, but deeper the smells. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We did not uncover leopard but it was a completely otherworldly experience. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I have to say I haven’t seen any place in Kenya as truly beautiful as it is here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The rolling hills, the beautiful flowers and the smells of fresh nature are addictive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve caught myself more than once planning a return visit. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Lewa is pretty special, even before you start game driving.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Johnson surprised us next by pulling up under a large acacia tree under which a table had been set for us and another couple from the UK. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Breakfast in the bush! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This was far more than the picnic breakfast I’m used to. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They had a gas burner for eggs made to order, scones, granola, fresh fruit, coffee and fresh pressed orange juice. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was quite heavenly and I think we’d somehow managed to work up an appetite just sitting and looking for animals. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They even had a hand washing station and portable outhouse! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This operation is class, no hand sanitizer and squatting behind a bush here!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Yesterday we’d made arrangements with Harry the chef to tour the camp’s garden nearby, so he met us after breakfast. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He seemed quite proud of it and so he should be. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was blown away. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Their goal is to be self-sustaining when it comes to fruit and veg, and by his count they have 78 different fruits, vegetables and herbs growing here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They’ve built greenhouses, henhouses and a tilapia farm that they feed with flies they breed. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The alfalfa they grow they turn into Lucerne that they sell to Sheldrick’s elephant orphanages. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It is a massive operation, much larger than I’d imagined, and employs so many local people. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Additionally, they have a “craft shop” which makes a lot of the wooden furniture and handicrafts I’ve seen around camp, like headboards, dining tables, chess sets. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was so struck by the intricacies of the woodworking. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The complicated lattice and geometric pieces were stunning. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Too bad I can’t get anything shipped home! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They are currently building all the furniture for a new camp they are opening, so it’s creating a lot of work for local woodworkers. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Women are employed for weaving things like the rugs that we see in our tents. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It is a great story of self-sufficiency but also of supporting the local community by offering them work.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We returned to camp at noontime and I took a nice hot shower before lunch. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Today Harry got out his new toy, a pizza oven. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He made a delicious flatbread with his own pesto and some hot honey and chile pepper. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>His pizza was a gorgeous vegetable pizza (veg from his garden obviously!) and a super thin crust that was light and tasty. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There were a mix of salads available, diced veg with lots of herbs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One was a tri colored tomato salad with goat cheese that was to die for, but that stellar pickled goat cheese from yesterday was back, and the UK ladies and I made quick work of making sure we got to it before it was scoffed up by other fans of it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was grilled pineapple with coconut, lemongrass and basil. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was delicious.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I will say that while I’m eating A LOT of food, it so far has all been really healthy and refreshing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I eat well at home, but certainly not to this degree. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I get all of these ideas for great side salads or new veg entrees but my best intentions are thrown by the wayside when I get home and don’t have the time or sous chef to dice all my veg.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Meshack made my lunch drink again and this time I paid attention: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>muddled mint, half club soda/half tonic water, a healthy couple of tablespoons of honey, a squeeze of lemon, a dash of angostura bitters and top-off of some lemon soda and some cucumber slices. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It is so good and definitely refreshing.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Today I am tired. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>While I’m not sleeping with the help of the Ambien that I brought with me, I think the travel and all day out in the fresh air is catching up with me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I will try to get to sleep earlier tonight if I can.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">After a very brief post-lunch siesta (during which I wrote this and did not sleep!) we headed out at 4 pm for our afternoon drive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I feared I’d fall asleep if I laid here listening to the birds and the river, so at 3:45 I headed up to the main house where an iced coffee was waiting for me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Have I already mentioned how incredible Kenyan coffee is, and even better that they’ve figured out how to make it iced, my preference? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Yes!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We went out again with the very best of intentions to find the lions, who Johnson believed were sleeping off their kill from this morning. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ll spare you the suspense and say, alas no lions. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We headed up the ridge to a vast overlook and Johnson spotted 3 black rhinos quite a distance away. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>To me, it looked to be many, many miles and at least 2 hours of driving. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>To him, it was about 5k and 20 minutes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He was right.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">So down the overlook we went and off toward the rhino. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was my vehicle mates’ last game drive here and I think because we’d seen so many white rhino already, he was torn between trying again to find leopard and showing them the black rhino. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We democratically decided to head for the black rhino. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>20 minutes later we found ourselves with the black rhino, a mother and one older child and one younger child. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Boy, were they a lot more skittish and distrusting than the white rhinos we’ve seen! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I managed to get a few photos before they scampered in the other direction. </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">For those who don’t know, “black” and “white” rhino have nothing to do with their color. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They take on the color of the earth wherever they live (and roll on the ground). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The name “white” is from the Dutch word for “wide” meaning their wide mouth. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>White rhinos are ground feeders and have wide, flat mouths. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They are also larger than black rhinos. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Black rhinos eat more off shrubs and bushes and have a narrow, pointed lip. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They are also skittish, solitary and smaller. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So there, if you read this, you learned something. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That we saw three black rhinos together was pretty impressive, I must say.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We headed back to the overlook to try to spot leopard. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>On our way we came across a mother white rhino and her calf. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I could not believe how casually we were spotting rhinos here there and everywhere. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s practically unheard of. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And these two, unlike the black rhinos, could not have cared less about us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It is just nuts!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Johnson heard the alert call of guinea fowl and followed it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We found three guinea fowl on a tree branch squawking an alert call and looking in the same direction. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Johnson drove us to the middle of a rocky, thickly grassed area. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We sat quietly and waited, the theory being that somewhere in this grass and rocks, there was a leopard. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We just need to out-wait it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Well, you know, nature calls and sundowners approached and we gave up after 45 minutes or so. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>No leopard showed its face but we had fun waiting and hoping and convincing ourselves that that alert call was the real thing.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Ros told me when walking to dinner that they had thought I was slightly nuts when they first heard how often I’d been here, but now, they get it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They totally get it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The not knowing, the wondering whether it will happen, and hoping it will. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They understand now. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m so happy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They now move on to the Mara for 4 days, where I hope…no, I KNOW they will find leopard. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They saw 4 of the Big 5 here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They need the 5th to seal the deal.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We headed further up to a different overlook to have our sundowners. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was a great time, lots of good conversation about gin, work, life and all things that matter. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I love to bond with people who are crazy (or is it sane?) enough to pay to come here to follow animals around all day. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It takes a special person to appreciate that. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I lucked out with a pair of wonderful women and an amazing guide to spend these days with. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We toasted our shared success and headed back for dinner.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Oh my, Meshack (our bartender) and Harry (our chef) hit me up as I showed up for dinner with a request that I help them whip up a cocktail. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They had a small amount of cucumber sorbet leftover from earlier this week, and wondered could they make a cocktail out of it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I suggested gin, of course. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So Meshack threw some sorbet, gin, lemon, lime cordial and jalapeno into a cocktail shaker and served it up in a martini glass. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was splendid!! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>4 star, highly recommend!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Dinner tonight started with a cheese rarebit over toast, which was quite tasty. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The entree a Mexican bean chili with homemade salsa over rice. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was a lemon sorbet in a tart crust. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was all quite tasty but I spent so much time talking, I can’t comment more on it!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We moved to the bar lounge area for “just one more” (I had Amarula) and after a bit longer of a chat I had to say goodnight and goodbye to Lucy and Ros. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They leave for the Mara tomorrow and I head out with Johnson for a 6:30 game drive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ll miss them, they’ve been splendid vehicle mates!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Off to bed for another 6 am coffee call!</span></span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-19092741849671142182024-01-12T14:36:00.001-05:002024-01-12T14:36:15.382-05:00Don’t let the monkeys in<p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Last night I saw 1 am and thought to myself “I’m never going to get to sleep, never, never never…” and then the next thing I knew I was being rousted out of bed like the house was on fire by the annoying iPhone alarm.</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">To say I slept the sleep of the dead is an understatement.</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">I was past the out cold stage of sleep.</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">But I felt pretty good.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Breakfast was included with my room at the Four Points, so I showered and headed down. After my day of nothing but carbs yesterday, I was craving protein, so I had a yogurt and an omelette, a cheese croissant to balance that out, and fresh mango and pineapple with a cup of coffee. That ought to hold me over.<span class="s2"></span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Stanley picked me up promptly at 8:30 and off we went to Wilson Airport for the flight to Lewa Downs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>With the opening of the bypass toll road, gone are the days of leaving for Wilson at 6 am for a 10 am flight. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We made it in less than a half hour and Stanley got me all checked in and ready to roll. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was gently raining but also pretty sunny as we left the hotel. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was also considerably cloudier than I’ve ever seen it here.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The Safarilink operation has done a serious upgrade to their technology and now issues real boarding passes and luggage tags. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Gone are the days of the pretty laminated passes emblazoned with your airstrip destination that you’d hand back as you got on the plane. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I have a collection of the luggage tags that have me waxing nostalgic each time I come across them in my desk drawer at home. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Ah well.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We boarded at 9:50 and took off at about 10:15. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was the third stop, Lewa Downs, after Loisaba and Nanyuki. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There were a bunch of low level clouds we rose above and stayed above for most of the flight. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was a nice transition from big air to small air to the rolling hills of Lewa, for sure. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Just as we landed for the last time, I saw three reticulated giraffes at the end of the airstrip, my first wildlife sighting of the trip.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">With the sheer amount of rain Kenya has gotten, everything is so incredibly green and not nearly as dry looking as I’m used to seeing it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That is really good for Kenyans, but will be a bit of a problem for photographers due to the high grass everywhere.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I was met by Johnson at the Lewa Downs airstrip and he will be my guide for the next 3 days. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m sharing him with Ros and Lucy, from the UK. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This is their first safari so it’s neat to see it through their eyes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We used the loos at the airstrip, and it was fun watching male weavers excitedly making their nests in the tree outside the restroom in their attempts to try to attract a female. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Once on the move, we quickly came upon a lone bull elephant, a Somali ostrich and two more reticulated giraffes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So already I’ve seen 2 of the Northern Five.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Surprisingly, we also had fairly close sightings of three white rhino, a solitary one and a mom with calf. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That was great to see them so relaxed and easy going.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">One other very unexpected sighting was a trail of ants crossing the road. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I know, you wouldn’t think we’d stop for ants! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But it was a BIG line of ants crossing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So Johnson got us out of the Land Rover and we investigated. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The car that had just passed us had run over a bunch of these and the remaining were freaking out. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>These are “sizzler ants” and when they are stressed they make a noise that sounds like throwing water droplets on a hot pan. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was really neat. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He showed us how the living ants would carry the dead ones (if they weren’t crushed and unmoveable) back to their home. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We waited it out and after maybe 5 minutes they’d all returned back to where they started, a few less in number, so we felt it was acceptable to cross now. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was a sobering nature story.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It is definitely noticeable how barely trafficked it is here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve only seen a couple of other vehicles from my camp and one local vehicle. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s so serene and low key. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Delightful.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We arrived at Lewa Wilderness and Moosh the manager gave us the tour. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was a bit starstruck immediately because I’d just watched Anthony Bourdain’s 2018 episode in Kenya before I left home and recognized Moosh as the one who guided Bourdain around here (AB also stayed here, which is why I chose it of other camps here in Lewa). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was shown to my ridiculously gorgeous room with the harsh reminder “when you are not in your room please keep doors and windows closed, keep the monkeys out.” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Ah yes, I’ve been there, done that. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Now I know I’m back in Kenya. </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Lunch was served buffet style and the chef came out to tell the vegetarians among us what was meat-free. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had tofu-veg kabobs off the grill, a white bean stew, cheesey twice-baked potatoes and a glorious Thai green papaya salad with some chile and basil that was to die for. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There was also cucumber-lime sorbet for dessert but the star of the show was the homemade goat cheese from the camp’s own goats. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Man, that was a last supper course if ever there was one.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">As I sit here on my own little veranda overlooking a gorgeous gorge, I hear only the rush of the river running nearby, the relentless cooing of some doves and the barking of some vervet monkeys, no doubt planning when next to attempt an invasion. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So now I sit, far from the 30 degrees, rain snow wind that I left at home. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’d say it’s low 70s here, comfortable for short sleeves and long pants. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ll definitely need my fleece early and late day though.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We met at 4:00 to head out again and Johnson made me a nice iced coffee for the road…boy do I miss my iced coffee already and the Kenyan strength is incredible! </span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Johnson had a well-defined game plan for the afternoon drive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Lions first. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Ever the skeptic and seeing the height of the grass (easily waist high in spots!) I was not holding out a lot of hope for lions. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The two ladies I’m with, it being their first safari and all, rode on top of the Land Rover for most of the drive until we went offroad. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I like being lower for photographs so I left them to it.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We drove on for a while, passing a couple of handsome reticulated giraffes (one is Fred, who has visited the camp for 20+ years and is very used to vehicles and people), and the elephant we saw earlier today named Boris. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m finding that my 100-400 lens is a bit too much for some closer shots, so I was glad when Boris moved behind us by about 50 yards and posed photogenically for me so I could get his entire self in the frame!</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We didn’t drive too long before one of my roof-bound mates shouted “LIONS!” and pointed left. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Lo and behold, there were two male lions, lying flat in the grass, big bloated bellies from a zebra breakfast. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>These two boys were out cold and going no where, but any safari that starts with two handsome big boys is bound to be a good one! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Since all of us are cat parents, we knew very well from the deep breathing and heaving sighs that they weren’t getting up any time soon, and we admired their massive paws and big scratchable bellies and moved on. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Johnson thought rhinos would be up next. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>How wrong he was.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">He’d spotted a huge crash of rhino a bit of a distance away. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And for a moment it seemed we were headed that way. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Until he scanned further with his binoculars and said “lions with cubs”. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He had me there, and off we went. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It took me until we were literally on top of them to see them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This was the Sara pride and they were tucked into the tall grass but as we got closer, one after another their heads popped up out of the grass. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There were 4 moms and at least 9 cubs, it was hard to keep track. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was over the moon. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I mean, truly, on my last safari I went 6 days before I saw a lion and here I was on my first game drive already with 15? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Yes, I was pretty happy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We sat and watched them stalk something on the horizon which ultimately they gave up. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then the cubs played a bit and ultimately they walked on while we enjoyed our sundowners (G&T for me, of course) and the company of new friends. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Today was a good day.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2">On the way back to camp we came across another mother white rhino and her calf. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was so blown away by how chill they were and how close we were able to be without them getting spooked. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It just speaks to the beauty of a place like this, so highly controlled in terms of visitor traffic, but also that Lewa was, first and foremost, a rhino sanctuary. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Johnson said there are about 270 rhinos here now, originally they started with about 15 in 1983 (I think?). That is a huge conservation success story. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve seen them in Nairobi National Park, but not like this. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They are just </span><span class="s3" style="text-decoration: underline;">so chilled</span><span class="s2"> here.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">There was one large acacia tree on the way back to camp just full of weavers’ nests. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And I noticed that they were almost all female birds in them, so the males had built the nests and the females had chosen them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But by the amount of noise coming from that tree, there had to be more than just the females. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Johnson said the nests all had babies in the by now and the noise was from the adults and babies combined. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was loud but glorious. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Very neat to finally see the end of the whole weaver-nest-making process! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(Have video, will post to Instagram/Facebook)</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We returned to camp, dropped our stuff in our tents and returned to the main area for dinner. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve made friends with Meshack the bartender. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>For lunch today he made me a non-alcoholic concoction that was so nice (I saw ginger beer, lemon soda and bitters, along with mint and cucumber, not sure what else) so tonight I let him make me a Casablanca cocktail, which was fruity and bright.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Dinner tonight was fish and chips (I am after all pescatarian and still craving protein from yesterday’s carb-a-palooza), a delicious french onion soup and a baked banana with chocolate crumbs and cream for dessert.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The other folks at the table tonight are from NY and CT, so of course with a table full of Brits and US Democrats, all talk turned to how this election year will pan out. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Unfortunately for us, the consensus was not positive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So we had another round and called it an early night. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>6 am coffee, 6:30 game drive tomorrow.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Not a bad first day out to start with. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The bar is set high. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m SO happy!!</span></span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-26380663405005821612024-01-11T16:38:00.002-05:002024-01-11T16:38:21.059-05:00From the land of the eternal layover in Amsterdam…<p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Left home at 3 pm with a misty goodbye to the kids.</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">I swear they both knew something was going on because they were clingy and not napping or eating the early supper I tried to feed them at 2 pm.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Fairly quick drive to airport parking and dropped at the international terminal in good time. Got to check in at the first class lane and then zipped to the Sky Lounge in Terminal E. Well, zipped is perhaps an understatement, as this is the first time I’ve flown out of the extended terminal E, which I think is now double the size and of course my flight and the Delta lounge were both at the farthest end of the new extension. It is pretty snazzy though, and close to world class. From what I gathered only Delta international flights were using it the day I passed through.<span class="s2"></span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The Delta lounge was pretty empty. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Free drinks and nibbles though, so I had a G&T and some picked over buffet items: mac and cheese and a pickled beet slider. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Before I knew it, it was time to board.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Delta One is meant to be their equivalent of first class. All the seats are pods with sliding doors. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The seats lie flat to sleep. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I found it a bit claustrophobic and didn’t close the sliding door but a guy near me did nothing but slam the door most of the flight, so yeah, not a lot of solid sleep there. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I watched half of the first season of West Wing, dozing in and out of it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The meal was ok, the highlight being a really tasty celery soup (who knew?). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I would have liked the Buratta ravioli, but my special meal was a vegetable curry over rice. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And an ice cream sundae with all the fixings for dessert. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was too full from all that to bother with the breakfast. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The flight arrived in Amsterdam on time, which was a concern of mine the last few days due to storms, but it was nary a problem, and not more than a little bumpy in spots too.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I spent part of the 3 1/2 hour layover in Amsterdam in the KLM Lounge. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s pretty huge and has several restaurants/bars and other amenities in it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had a cappuccino to fight off the caffeine headache I would have otherwise and then found some little dutch pancakes and a banana. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>My thought being that I’d have lunch coming soon, but just needed something to tide me over.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I’d heard from someone on Trip Advisor that the flight from Ams-Nairobi had been running late and hers two nights before me was over 2 hours late. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Lo and behold when I checked for my gate in Amsterdam, it was showing a half hour delay. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That turned into 45 minutes and then into an hour. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So here we sit waiting for takeoff. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve queued up some tv shows and movies to binge, and maybe I’ll get some sleep on this leg. </span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">This plane was meant to be 1-2-1 configuration, but a late plane swap (and flight number swap, which showed up as “cancelled” and nearly gave me heart failure) meant that Business Class is 2-2-2 configuration, and I’ve lost my window seat. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>First world problem, and still far better than being in coach for the next 8 hours. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was trying not to stress because it’s fully out of my hands, but I just want to get there.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The service on the KLM flight was the best I’ve had anywhere. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One flight attendant in particular was very sweet and kind and took excellent care of me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The special request food for vegetarians had what appeared to be chicken in it so I basically ate bean salad, rice and desserts all day today. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I am not a fan of KLM’s veg options, clearly.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">One part of coming here that I completely dread is immigration on landing here in Nairobi. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In February I was in Business Class and among the first 20 off the plane and in line for 75 minutes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>At the end of 20+ hours in transit, that just sucks. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Well tonight I won the lottery. I scooted off the plane first, and ran like heck. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Met the guy who was to take me to the hotel and was first in line in immigration! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So I cleared immigration, exchanged money and was in bed at my hotel within 40 minutes of landing! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Huge score.</span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It was about 70 at midnight and the ground is wet from recent rain. They said it has rained a lot more than usual, but not all day and not every day. This is supposed to be their dry season but El Niño has other plans. After a few years of severe drought, they really need it.</span></span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="s2"></span><br /></span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I get picked up at 8:30 tomorrow for my flight to Lewa. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s on! There were so many times today when the travel got to me and I said “this is it, I can’t do these flights again” but once I landed and met the guide here and started talking to him, I knew this is where I belong.</span></span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-66699298458270569972024-01-09T20:47:00.001-05:002024-01-09T20:47:41.058-05:00Note to self: do not freak out<span style="font-family: verdana;">There is an episode of The Office in which Michael Scott has <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtItscbcvS0" target="_blank">made a video</a> of his past self speaking to his future self. Future Michael has just found out that the woman of his dreams is single, and he’s over-celebrating, freaking out really. Past Michael tries to calm him, steady him, and rein in the freak out. For my next safari, I need to make that video for myself. Except Pre-Trip Me is not freaking out with joy but rather pre-trip anxiety. It happens every.single.time. I worry about the weather (hello massive wind storm tonight!), missed connections, leaving the cats, leaving my Mom, leaving projects undone at work. Yesterday was so manic trying to get everything wrapped up at work that I actually told a friend “it’s just not worth it.” I’m writing this now to remind myself when I read it back later that this happens, every time, and it always IS worth it, every time. And nothing I catastrophize ever comes to fruition. And to remember that when things are quiet and sedate again, make that video to Pre-Trip Me.</span><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;">My super safari planner sent me my SafariLink tickets yesterday so I’m all ready to roll. I’ve packed, re-packed and triple checked everything. The nagging fear of forgetting my battery charger or plugs is overwhelming. But it’s all packed. And I realize I’m truly manic about this. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;">So tonight all I have to worry about is the wind, when it will stop and will any airport delays clear up so that I will make the connection (3 1/2 hours) in Amsterdam. As if my worrying changes anything.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;">But I am looking forward to so much, like HEY Business Class on all my flights! And two new camps! And rhinos! And a bunch of cheetah cubs near one camp! </span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;">Hopefully tomorrow at this time I’ll be well underway. It’s actually here!</span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-37954917747095526572024-01-01T15:23:00.001-05:002024-01-01T15:23:04.273-05:00New Year, nearly there!<span style="font-family: verdana;">The holidays did well to kill the time for me as I await safari. Tasks are getting ticked off the list as I get closer to leaving: I got my anti-malarial without having to make an appointment since I was just at the travel clinic under a year ago! Lined up airport parking and got my visa (three day turnaround, not bad!). And this weekend I’ve started packing. Woot!</span><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;">No near-departure time would be normal without a crisis or two to worry about. Miss Maisie had a health crisis as it turns out she’s losing weight unintentionally. Fear not, it’s “just” IBD, and treatable, but we found that out only after consulting with a specialist. And Mom had a turn in the ER over the weekend which turned out ok, I think. I worry as a full time job so it’ll be hard for me to turn that off and get out of dodge so to speak. But I’m in the single-digits now and really just need to get on that plane.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;">My April trip took a bit of a turn when I couldn’t find flights home that weren’t over 20 hours and three stops. I’m already barking at the work limit of 10 business days off, I can’t take two to get home. So I scrapped the tour and decided to do a week in Slovenia on my own. I’ve been walking/running a lot with iFit on my treadmill and see that there’s so much more to Slovenia than the tour was going to cover. I can leave Croatia for another time. And as a bonus, I’m stopping in London on the way home for 2 nights to see my favorite band Elbow…finally! They announced their tour after I’d booked the Adriatic tour and I couldn’t finagle it, but now I can. All’s well in the end. So I’ve booked all the flights and hotels for that and will have it to look forward to when I get back from Kenya.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;">2023 was a tough year with work and other stresses. I’m mentally spent and really tired. I’m long overdue for a break. I don’t write this for attention or sympathy, but only to remind myself when I get back how rough I felt before I left home. I know that this safari is a cure for all that ails me. It always has been. 6 more days of work. Nearly there….</span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-74736441311359796982023-11-22T14:07:00.002-05:002023-11-22T14:07:29.661-05:00Resurfacing…8 months later!<p>How is it possible that I have not posted anything that has gone on in the last 8 months? No, I’ve not traveled anywhere spectacular, but I do have grand plans. Some are tremendously close too!</p><p>I was home from Kenya for about a month before I realized I really, really need to go back. This should come as absolutely no surprise to anyone who knows me. It was back in my blood and fresh in my head, and try as I might, nothing would shake it free. I first looked at flights to see what timing would result in cheaper fares, had a couple of blocks in January and February 2024 sketched out and I reached out to Richard again at Expert Africa. I told him only that I wanted to go to Lewa Wilderness and return to Kicheche Valley Camp (where I’d ended my February safari). I want to see rhinos this time as I’ve only really had good luck with them in Nairobi National Park. And Lewa is one of the best places to see them, as well as Lewa Wilderness being where Anthony Bourdain stayed in Kenya just before his death. That resonates with me, to be where he was, experiencing what he did. And I know from research it is an outstanding camp.</p><p>Richard was quick to book 3 nights each in those camps and suggested Kicheche Laikipia in Ol Pejeta Conservancy. Ol Pejeta was actually the first place I ever stayed in Kenya back in 2014, but at another family of camps. Given how much I loved Kicheche last time, I’m good with going to experience their version of Ol Pejeta. Richard included time to see the last two remaining northern white rhinos there (literally, the last of their species) which I did not do the first time I visited Ol P. Not sure how I missed that! But I think now that I know so much more about both Kenya and wildlife conservation, it will be a much more meaningful visit.</p><p>Through some fancy internet tools (ok, Google Flights) I also managed to find Business Class fares all the way around, with my preferred routing via Amsterdam going over, and a less fun routing via Paris on Kenya Airways coming home. BC is still good no matter how you go, so I bought it. This was all signed, sealed and delivered in April. And the wait began. And then just last week, I got a surprise of the good sort, and was notified that the less desirable routing via Paris was changed to via Amsterdam, so now all is right in my world. And I cannot hide the fact that I’m most excited about getting <b>two</b> little Delft houses now that I’ll be on KLM for two BC flights! Woot!</p><p>Sis and I managed a quick jaunt to Amsterdam late March to see the Vermeer exhibition at the Rijksmuseum, which was epic and thoroughly enjoyable. We walked our feet down to the ground and enjoyed a lovely new gin bar I discovered. It was a lovely long weekend.</p><p>The rest of the summer saw me embroiled in a massive project at work, so time away was hard to find. I managed a stay-cation of sorts the week of my birthday in July. It wasn’t until October that I got away again, and only for two nights to enjoy Morrissey at the United Palace Theater on the upper west side of NYC. While that was fun, it was a lot of driving for me, and not quite the vacation I needed after the summer I had with work.</p><p>My original “next-up” list of places to go included both Turkey (twice postponed now due to covid concerns), Jordan and Egypt, but not on one trip. But when war broke out in Israel, I decided to press pause there and look for another destination in Europe. I wanted some place I’ve not been yet. After browsing more than a few Internet forums and travel specialists, I signed on to a small group tour to the Adriatic coast with just one spot remaining on the April departure that works for my schedule. It will start in Ljubljana, Slovenia and go through Bosnia-Herzegovina, ending in Dubrovnik, Croatia. If I needed validation that it was the right choice, the current season of Amazing Race just landed there in last week’s episode, so I went with it. It’s more than I wanted to pay for a second vacation next year, but my cheaper options dried up with the war. Maybe I’ll get to Turkey in the fall next year, who knows. But for now, I’m working to find convenient, affordable and efficient airfare to the Dalmatian coast in April. My treadmill has a few different series in this part of the world, so I’ve been walking and running at some of these sights too!</p><p>Once I nail the airfare and trip insurance for the April trip, I need to work in earnest on packing for Kenya, getting the visa and learning my new camera (oh yeah, there’s that too!). My Sony RX10 that died last January was replaced by a Canon mirrorless with interchangeable lenses! Gulp! It’s a learning curve but I’m starting to feel like I have a handle on it. I already have a lot of my toiletries set aside for safari, buying sunblock is a joy in the post-summer months!) and I carefully folded and stored my summer clothes when the season ended. With Thanksgiving and Christmas to kill the next month or so, I know the time will fly and I’ll be boarding that plane before I know it.</p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-44232679053296939142023-02-22T12:19:00.000-05:002023-02-22T12:19:54.242-05:00Day 11 — Last Day Luck<p> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-weight: bold;">Wednesday February 22</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">An absolutely silent night for my last night here other than the few lions who serenaded me while I packed before bed. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I tried to read but fell asleep quickly. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A text from my sister around midnight woke me at midnight, a warning that I’d be landing in Boston in snow. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Oh joy.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Off we went on our last morning drive with Twala. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We were all quiet as we made our way through the dark, probably all thinking how it is possible to leave the perfection of a pre-dawn game drive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala passed a lone lion and a couple of hippo making their way through the dark, which was fine since we could hardly make them out and photos wouldn’t work.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I think we headed north and soon enough we could see the tawny colored fur of lions making their way through the bush. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Little did I know that I was about to have one of my best lion sightings ever.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We came across the Ilksiausiau pride again, this is a big one and we had about 10 of them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were all sub-adult so old enough to be on their own without mom but still dotted with their cub colored spots. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>These cats were enjoying the cool morning before the sun came up playing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>All sorts of rough-housing, chasing, coveting of sticks and chunks of bark, tearing up turf to play with reminded me of the two I left at home, just big kittens burning off some energy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I have more photos and a whole lot of video from all of these interactions because they were truly epic and I’ve never seen so much play and fun in a pride before, so a first for me.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">But also, two moments when I thought “uh-oh, this is the end of me”. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One a trio of lions were really fighting and turned vicious. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were rolling around in a wrestling heap and growling and roaring and came right toward the jeep. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I jumped back because they came uncomfortably close while full of their play rage before they realized the vehicle was there and abruptly stopped. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>PHEW. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The second time was when a very big male came up out of the dry riverbed expecting to just jump right on to the bank, not expecting that we’d be sitting right there. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As he leapt up, I saw him headed straight between me and my Brit vehicle mate, before he suddenly lurched to his left and dodged around the vehicle all together. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He was, quite literally, within arm’s length and I jumped back. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I have the video to prove it, it was pretty special if not the first time I think I’ve ever been panicky here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But hey, better to go crushed by a big lion than sitting at my desk, right?</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We stayed with them for about an hour when they started to tire and the heat of the day set in. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was so much fun to see all that play and realize how similar domestic and wild cats are. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Just as we left two lions looked up at a tree. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One of my vehicle mates asked Twala “cats don’t climb trees, do they Twala?” And he said no just at the moment that one cat did indeed climb that tree. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>All behavior I’ve never seen before. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>What a day for a girl smitten with lions.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We then came across a very skittish male cheetah that Twala couldn’t identify. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It wasn’t familiar to any of the other guides either. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Since he was just dozing under a tree we only watched him for a bit and moved on. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala was still giving it a good try to find leopards for the Brits, but any time we made it to leopard territory, we’d seen baboons or monkeys or even humans having their bush breakfasts and realize there’d be no leopard there.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Bush breakfast today was pretty much the same, including the bush loo break, only this time three vervet monkeys watched me as I did my business. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Too funny.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Over breakfast we watched one of the vervets with a very tiny baby climbing and playing on a log near us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I don’t think any of us has seen a monkey that small before, it was quite cute.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">After dinner last night where we discussed vervet monkeys, I made it Twala’s goal to find a male vervet for them to witness. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The males are most notable for their bright blue testicles. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Everyone at the table had seem them except my vehicle mates, and I felt it a necessity. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala found one while we had breakfast. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was funny.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">As we started the slow and regretful job back to camp, we stopped to watch some baboons with little babies and a few vultures on the remnants of a wildebeest (just the horns and skull!)</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We agree that none of us was ready to leave, but we didn’t have much choice, they’d already given our tents to the next guests! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We got back to camp and I had a couple of iced coffees before lunch, which was excellent as usual. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They had a red pepper and tomato gazpacho, which was incredible given how hot it was midday. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There was also a pasta salad and grilled veggies on skewers. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was a strawberry mousse that was heavenly. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I washed it down with my last Malawian Shandy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Sniff.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Minnie runs an amazing operation at Kicheche Valley. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Her team are always helpful, smiling and anticipating any need. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I would return there in a heartbeat. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She’s a kind, gentle soul who really looked after me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s not often you find someone like her in a business like this.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">After a good cry as we lifted off from the Mara, I found the SafariLink flight to Nairobi, which had one intermediate stop midway somewhere, was mostly uneventful. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It is much cooler here in Nairobi now and I’m sitting in an outdoor restaurant at the hotel waiting for my veggie burger. </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">For those familiar with Nairobi, the new expressway and bypass roads are now open, so the trip to/from Wilson and JKIA is only about 15 minutes now, even at 4:30 pm when I landed today! It’s a vast change from the good old days.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Doing a covid test before the flight, 12 days of no mask has been blissful, I’m hoping it didn’t gain me an infection. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(Edit…test is negative.)</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Just need to eat and shower and head to the airport for a midnight flight. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The long slog home begins….the good news is I just scored another discounted Business Class fare so at least I can sleep the 9 hours to Nairobi. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Woot!</span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-78958999232569989142023-02-21T15:03:00.000-05:002023-02-21T15:03:00.040-05:00Day Ten — Dancing Maasai<p> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-weight: bold;">Tuesday February 21</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I was up early and got a head start on packing for tomorrow. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>While I was organizing and sorting, I heard a lion right outside camp. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The same outside I was about to walk into to get to the LandRover. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>No worries, we have guards at camp that you flash your flashlight at from the front of your tent, but still. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were close. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala says when the lions are nearby we have no other animals around camp. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And indeed, driving out, none of the usual zebra, giraffe, impala that we’ve seen right up next to camp were around. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Last night a giraffe was grazing on a tree right next to the front flaps of my tent!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Some days out on safari are a bit slower than others but it doesn’t mean it’s any less enjoyable, maybe just a little less exciting. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We started out early again and headed north toward the very large pride of 40+ lions (Iikisiusiu pride). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was after sunrise before we found some of them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They’d killed a young wildebeest in the wee hours and by the time we got there, one sub-adult male was gnawing on the skull and antlers and that was all we found left of that creature, other than one bloody hyena running away with the spine. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In the distance a parade of a dozen or so lions was heading to the hill and the area where there is a watering hole. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala said that lions often like to drink after a meal and he raced to the spot where he knew they’d first look.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We got there just as a female lion did and the spot was dry. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala knew she’d check there first and move to another that usually has water if they were truly thirsty. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She came over to the dry watering spot right next to us and surveyed the situation, then huffed off grumping about it, probably letting the rest of the family know not to bother, the hole is dry. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Off she went into the bushes to sleep the day away.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Next we came upon the big tusker we saw yesterday on his own and then with that small herd. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He wasn’t alone today, he was with another big tusker, and together they made quite an impressive <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>pair. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>What I didn’t mention yesterday is that, while I got some really good photos of him yesterday, I’m not sure I’d enlarge any of them, and especially not display them at work, because in most of them he had a very erect penis. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Any shot I got of him yesterday made it appear as if he had a fifth leg. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Hanging that in my office will probably get me branded Not Safe For Work. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Today when we found him, he was in that state again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>His friend was not initially, but then they swapped states of arousal and I managed to snap the big guy with just four legs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The challenges of wildlife photography!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Anyway, all of us really took the time to appreciate how silently they move, even being the size these two are. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Neither gave us a second look, which was good. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I liked not being a bother to them.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Bush breakfast today was unique in that we were right along a migration route and several hundred wildebeest were running past us for a lot of our time out of the vehicle. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were just moving either from one source of water or grass to another, it wasn’t the great migration everyone knows about, but it was interesting to see the herd mentality at play.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Breakfast today was frittata (this place has it down with the protein!), orange muffins and granola. I had a wonky stomach overnight so ate light with just the frittata and a muffin. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I feel better now by midday and ready to roll on with lunch.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Twice today we came upon herds of eland, which are a very large antelope with a very prominent fat pad that hangs beneath their chin along their neck. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve only ever seen them in singles before as far as I can remember, so to see them in herds like this and in very good numbers is impressive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>What was funny though is that one big male eland must have stuck his head in a bush and a bunch of greens stuck to his horns. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So he was walking around like he had a crown of garland on his head. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was pretty funny, especially when one of the females came over to him to try and nibble the greens!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Our last sighting right before returning to camp was pretty cool in how it happened. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We were crossing a ridge above the valley and Twala stopped suddenly and picked up binoculars. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He said “lions over there” while pointing to what appeared to be several miles of landscape. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Further detail was “moving towards wildebeest on the horizon”. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>None of us could even see the wildebeest. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And the horizon looked to be a good 10 miles away. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But no, it was only about 4 minutes away, and when we pulled up, we found a pile of lions under a bush. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>How Twala made this spot like he did is well beyond my comprehension.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">These were 6 cousins of the Sampu Enkare lion pride, the same pride we saw running toward the male’s roars last night after sundowners. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There was one sub-adult male who looked to be in charge of 5 younger cubs (not little cubs, maybe 18 months or so). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The cubs all still had spotty bellies and legs and were keen on watching us and looking at where our noise was coming from. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One little guy had a wound on his nose with flies poring out of it, and he kept rubbing it with his paw. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Man, I’d have him to the vet so fast if he were my cat (which is why Cape Ann Vet loves me!). They were all just hunkering down for a nap and appeared to have round bellies meaning they’d fed recently, so we had no reason to think they’d move again now, so we headed back to camp, which was less than 5 minutes away!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We grabbed a drink in the lounge area before heading back to freshen up for lunch. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I asked for a Stoney Tangawizi but Minnie asked if I’d ever had a Malawian Shandy, which is Stoney, Sprite and a dash of angostura bitters and a slice of orange. I obviously haven’t had one before, but now that I have it may be my drink of choice! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s so refreshing and a nice taste. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And I know Sprite is rehydrating, which I really think I need. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s cooler here today but my skin is so terribly dry I may never be fully hydrated again…</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Lunch today was a turkish pastry stuffed with veggies and a spicy tomato sauce and the beet root salad I like. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was a very thin puff pastry cup with fruit salad and a dab of raspberry ice cream on it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was so good and very refreshing.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">After Iunch I took my last siesta nap. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m tired and I think the schedule is catching up with me, so I slept for nearly 2 hours. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It warm and quiet but still good to have the sounds of the bush lull me to sleep.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Poor Twala tried so hard to conjure up some leopards for my vehicle mates. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We spent over an hour combing leopard country high up in the northern part of the conservancy (we are very far south) but no luck. We headed back towards camp and instead came across several pairs of impala faux-fighting, locking horns and cracking heads together. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That was kind of crazy to see.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">At one point Twala stopped fast and had us look down. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In the middle of the road, nestled between three stones was a crowned plover (bird) sitting on two eggs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When she felt threatened by us, she stood up and spread her wings to make a show of it, but we quickly left her to it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I think she might have picked a less trafficked place for it, but who knows.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">At last we got closer to camp and saw a herd of impala all staring downhill, and we discovered the large lion pride we saw part of this morning dispersed across the hill on the other side of the valley. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Those impala were so suspicious of lions so far off from where they were. </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We of course went to see them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We started with three who we followed to a watering hole. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala positioned me just right for that “lions drinking” shot, so I was very happy right there. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then we went further up the hill to find 8 more lions of various ages (but none fully grown) lying about. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One little guy was attempting to stalk an impala but quickly thought differently about it and went over to the pile of his siblings and cousins and piled on.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">As each additional lion turned up to the pile of lions, they’d greet each other with head or chin rubs or tail flicks. It all became too much for one of them though and a bit of a fight ensued, which I was lucky to be taking video for at the time. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A couple of the older lions move away from the pile then, and the one younger lion who I suspect was the instigator walked over to one of them and swatted her across the head. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was kind of funny to see them playing like kids, or like my own cats at home!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I have spent more time with Twala and this couple doing a little more slow safari. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Stopping to look at things beyond the cats (like a gorgeous bee-eater bird tonight) and also learning more from Twala. </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Dinner tonight was gnocchi in a tomato sauce to start, baked fish with rice, broccoli and boiled red cabbage for the main and a molten lava cake for dessert. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was wonderful! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had a glass of Amarula for a nightcap.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">One of the other British guests has been teasing Nelson, one of the dining staff about singing for us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Well tonight he made good on it and got all the camp staff dressed in their Maasai robes and jewelry and they came out and presented traditional song and dance to us. They even got us up to dance. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was really fun and a nice way to end the trip.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Five of us here all have one more game drive tomorrow, the morning one, which is the best one and then late check out and lunch before we fly back to Nairobi together at 3:15.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">This trip is just what I needed to relax, recharge and heal. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m so lucky for how much it has exceeded my expectations. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Now if I could just go home and look at my photos, clean some clothes and come back!</span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-78169276450268601742023-02-20T14:30:00.004-05:002023-02-20T14:30:53.608-05:00Day Nine — Lions vs. Buffalo<p> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-weight: bold;">Monday February 20</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Today I got my groove back. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Yesterday I was disappointed for a few reasons I won’t elaborate on here, but I think the tone of yesterday’s post might have revealed some frustrations.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Minnie the camp manager here at my last camp is wonderful. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Such a gentle, sweet, endearing woman. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She runs a tight ship but no detail is overlooked and nothing is too much to ask. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I mentioned I had two bug bites that had not been responding to hydrocortisone and were driving me crazy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She quickly turned up with something stronger that, thankfully, seems to have eradicated them miraculously. </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I slept amazingly well with that front tent flap wide open. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was the perfect sleeping temperature and even cool enough to pull the duvet up and snuggle in. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I didn’t hear too much noise except for either a buffalo or hippo munching grass around the tent. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Just a soft chewing and gentle footstep.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Out we went at 6 am. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We headed back up to the plain where we had the sundowner last night and stumbled across the honeymooning lions and his brother. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(Brothers will stick together, even when a female mates with he dominant one. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The brother was wandering around nearby both time we’ve seen them). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The couple were asleep but the non-mating brother was walking. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala positioned me exactly for the big maned male to be heading directly at me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then he looped around and set me up again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Man, if I don’t get some good shots out of that attempt, I’m hopeless. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala also told me I could open the door to the jeep and lie flat to be almost ground level with him, but I just couldn’t do it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>For once, fear got the best of me.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We then went back up to the honeymooners and watched them do their thing a few times in the golden light just after sunrise. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They’re still going at it every 5-7 minutes or so.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Next we came upon a small herd of elephants that had a matriarch and a few of her daughters, and the tiniest wild elephant I think I’ve seen. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s ears were still folded flat across the top of its head, so that puts it at less than a few weeks old (Twala is actually teaching me a lot, I did not know that!). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>At one point the little one fake charged the vehicle and it was so cute…like, all the fierceness it could muster with wide ears and trunk up. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Too funny. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And I love watching how even at this young age, when it’s a long ways from eating greens instead of mother’s milk, it is mimicking what the others do, scuffing up clumps of grass to then pick up with a trunk. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was scuffing already and also reaching into bushes with its trunk but not pulling anything off. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Nature is pretty amazing.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Our next lion sighting was three lionesses and three 5 month old cubs from the Enesikiria pride. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were walking through grass mid morning, and I didn’t realize why they were so shifty until I saw a large herd of buffalo passing by. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The lionesses hustled the cubs under bushes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One stayed with them, another was on guard near them and a third lioness took the front line on a small hill in front of them, watching as the buffalo paraded past. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Some would stop and stare the lioness down, and her ears would flatten and she’d crouch a little lower, just like my Maisie does when she’s staring down a squirrel at our back door. </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">One of the little cubs has a lame front paw. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When it runs it is not weight bearing at all, which is of course incredibly sad to me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I offered to take it home to do rehab. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Hopefully it is just a soft tissue injury that will heal over time, and the moms can keep them safe until it does. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala said that two of the lioness had cubs at about the same time for a total of five cubs and they’ve lost two to buffalos, so that would explain why they were very twitchy around them.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Breakfast this morning was out in the bush today. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was surprised when Twala stopped where he did, because we were right in the middle of a whole lot of game: topi, hartebeest, zebra, giraffe, impala, jackal, warthog. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>None would threaten us, but I’ve just not been that close to so many at once on foot. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Most of them gradually edge away from us and stood to stare from a safe (for them) distance. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>However, the giraffes were more curious. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Each of us used the bush bathroom (just going behind a large bush near the vehicle that Twala first inspects for hidden predators/snakes and gives us the all clear). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Each of us went in turn, and it was fascinating and hilarious to watch the giraffes watch us do our business. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I looked over at one point and she was staring at me, not chewing, not moving, as if to say “so THAT’S how you humans do that!” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>After the initial performance anxiety from having an audience, all was well. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But hey how many people can say that a giraffe has watched them pee?</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Bush breakfast this morning was quite good, vegetarian scotch egg (yay PROTEIN!) and pancakes with coffee and juice. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was very good. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The Swiss couple told me the food is better here and I have to agree with them so far.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We spent some time at the hippo pool again watching them submerge and pop up again, showing varying degrees of ears/eyes/nostrils each time. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The weaver birds weren’t going nuts over the pool like they were yesterday, so it was fun to just watch the hippo bloat float.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Returned to camp to a nice tall iced coffee. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I haven’t had this since home and boy do I miss it! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I am reaching the point when I’m starting to miss some creature comforts. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I could do with my hydrating face masks right about now for how painfully dry my face is from all the sunblock. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And I really miss my cats, who I think of every time I’m watching lions.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Not sure what’s in store for this afternoon. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The couple I’m sharing a vehicle with have not seen a leopard so I’m sure Twala will find one. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m perfectly fine with all the lions, since those are my thing.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Lunch today was carrot and chick pea soup, vegetarian cannelloni and Amarula (like Bailey’s Irish Cream) mousse. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Heavenly!! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I sat with and hung out for a while with Nina and Marie, the cousins from NYC who are leaving today. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was fun to chat with other like minded wildlife and photography folks.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">A couple of follow-up notes….</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The snake I saw the other night (ending my streak of no snakes on safari) was a spitting cobra. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I would, allegedly, have been alright as long as I didn’t show the snake my eyes….</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The pregnant cheetah we saw with her impala lunch yesterday was Kulete. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Interestingly she is the sister of Kweli, the cheetah with 3 sub-adult cubs we saw a few days ago, and the daughter of Amani, my favorite of all cheetahs in the Mara. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So I’ve now seen all of Amani’s litters: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Karembo in 2014, Imani in 2016, Kisaru and Busara in 2017 and Kweli and Kuleti now. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Pretty cool.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Well the afternoon drive was one of those things I would never have thought I’d ever see. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There are just encounters that you never think will happen while you’re watching. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve actually seen this play out on nature tv shows, but it was far more hair raising in person. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala quickly found what we thought were just a couple lionesses lounging aside a riverbed. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Turns out it is the Sampu Enkare pride, which is 30 or so lions strong. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were pretty spread out among the bushes though, which would quickly become obvious to us.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">As we watched these two lionesses, my vehicle mate Kevin said he heard rustling in the bushes across from us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala didn’t think so. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But the lionesses both rose and went directly into the bush, so Twala followed them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>What they, and we, encountered was a very old elderly grouchy Cape buffalo coming at them (and us) through the bushes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It didn’t register whether the buffalo saw them at that point, but the lionesses knew he was there and hid deeper into the bush. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The buffalo passed the bush with the lions in it, but paused. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then one lioness came out and followed him, quickly realizing he was closer than she thought, and she ducked for cover, just before he realized he was being followed. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So he stood there, staring just at the branches she was behind, with another lioness deeper into the bush making way towards him.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The buffalo finally turned and continued eating along the riverbank. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The two lionesses boldly came out of the bushes and sat like two sphinxes about 40 feet behind him. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He turned and stared them down while they stared back. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And then the calvary arrived. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Four other lions appeared out of no where and spaced out in a 50 foot circle around this buffalo who was now basically trapped between them and the river…and our vehicle was in the center of the circle! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>If any hunt at all had occurred, we’d have been front and center, literally! </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The lions continued to stare and the buffalo continued to ignore them while he ate and walked away. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was all very intense! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I think we all wanted something to go on, but were also nervous about our position if it did.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The lions retreated back into the bushes and we moved on.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Next up we came across a big tusker (50+ year old male elephant with massive tusks) as he lumbered across the plains on his own. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We followed him for a bit and then caught up with him again as he met up with 10-member elephant herd. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He was really just checking the females to see if any were ready to mate, and once he ascertained that there weren’t any, he turned and left. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We hung with the herd for a bit, watching their two little babies and just listening to how quiet they are when they eat.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We then came upon another dozen or so lions from Sampu Enkare pride. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were sort of flaked out across an area we were driving through, so we stopped to watch them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They all moved closer together to create a big pile of lions, which was great and all, but what was really very cool to see and hear was their pride male started roaring for them across the valley. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They all stopped what they were doing and looked in the direction of the roars, got up and made their way to him. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We followed them through the bush the best we could until they got deep into it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Twala of course was positioning me for some great photography. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As much as I don’t want to go home I’m really anxious to see how all these came out.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We had our sundowner on the plain again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It had been sprinkling on and off during the drive and was pretty overcast when the sun did go down, but we still managed to squeak it out.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Dinner tonight for me was a baked eggplant appetizer, red snapper in paprika sauce with potatoes and carrots and a fruit cheesecake for dessert. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then, because it was my vehicle-mates’ 41st wedding anniversary, there was cake, champagne and a performance by the camp staff who sang Hakuna Matata and a Kenyan song about blessings to them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was really sweet.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I’ve added another member of the indoor chameleon club today. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There was a tiny one on the screen when I came in from dinner. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As long as they deal with the bugs, they can stay.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Tomorrow is my last full day here and I’m pretty bummed about it, but also really want to see my kids and family, and have a facial of some sort for how ridiculously dry my face is!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I’ve just turned out the light and am listening to what I’m pretty sure is either a hippo or buffalo right outside the tent. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I will miss this….</span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-10971592513096074642023-02-19T14:17:00.005-05:002023-02-19T14:27:42.732-05:00Day Eight — On to Naboisho<p> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-weight: bold;">Sunday February 19</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Right after being walked back to my tent after dinner, a lion seemed to be roaring his way toward camp. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I stood and listened while I was packing, remembering to savor the moment. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>All too soon I’ll be back to car alarms and barking dogs.</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">After that, it was a much quieter night around camp until just before the alarm went off when a lion was roaring quite close by. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I mentioned to Benja that it was nearby right before we headed out and it seemed that we’d go in that direction to investigate. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I mean, that seemed the obvious choice, it usually is. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We did see one lioness about 1/4 mile ahead of us at one point, but we didn’t bother to follow her.</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We rode around for a bit and finally came across a couple other of our camp’s vehicles watching the two Enkoyani pride males lying in the open sound asleep. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They make no bones about just lying anywhere, not trying to take shelter or hide themselves. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Just flop and sleep. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Once again, Swiss Guy for the win….he whispered to me that he saw the females and cubs in the other direction. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I let Benja know and we snuck off. </span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We tracked the females and cubs for a bit and then they doubled back to where the males were and we did too, just in time to witness an absolutely adorable reunion between fathers and cubs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Yes, I have photos! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was beside myself with happiness. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There is just nothing better and during golden hour light too. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then one little cub started his not-so-ferocious roar (more like a cranky mew) and walked right towards us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I flipped on the video on the iPhone and caught him walking next to our LandCruiser. Holy cuteness! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m fairly certain he’d fit in a carry on, just sayin’!</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">At one point one of the pride males spotted a hyena approaching, a very big threat to the cubs, and he flew off to chase it away. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The other camp vehicles went after that while we held down the fort with the cubs and lionesses. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’d like to think that’s my speciality.</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Benja wanted us to move on and find something else before breakfast. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I think all three of us would have been fine staying there, but who knows what he may find. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We drove for a while without any sightings. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He’d stop and survey the landscape with binoculars and then keep driving. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Suddenly while looking through the binos, he said “leopard cub”. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Hey, ho, what??? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Before he could even explain to us where it was, he was radioing it to the other vehicles. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It took me a good 5 minutes to figure out where he was talking about. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We were a respectful 100 yards or so away. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I only saw it by taking a photo fully zoomed on my camera, and then enlarging that on my camera screen. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That’s how far we were from it. </span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The cub was left alone in the crook of a stone wall. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Behind it was a little cave where it was being raised. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Its mom is Natito, a well known leopard here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She’d obviously told it to stay put while she goes out. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He was the cutest little thing, just sitting high up on the rock, hunkered down and waiting. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We didn’t want to encroach on him/her so we left before it could get spooked by us.</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We had the same bush breakfast as yesterday except with the addition of a spanish omelet which was great for protein! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We sat watching a long line of wildebeest migrate across the plains. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was pretty chill.</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Not 5 minutes outside of camp, Benja sighted a cheetah under a tree. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We approached and even before we got to the sighting, Benja was calling it in on the radio. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The cheetah was a female who appeared to be pregnant, but when I asked Benja didn’t know who she was. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She’d just made a kill of a small Thomson’s gazelle. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She was still panting from the effort and nervously scanning everywhere, fearing that it may be stolen from her. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It took her about 10 minutes before she even thought about starting to eat it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We were in the only good position for photography, head on to her and not shooting into the sun.</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">All in all my stay there was good. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The camp is nice, the in-camp staff is incredible, friendly, accommodating and attentive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I certainly had the cat sightings, however we got them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Benja was a good guide, but I’m more used to someone making their own sightings, keeping them to ourselves, at least for a bit, and knowing the resident cats by name. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That he didn’t was somewhat of a disappointment. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The Swiss couple said my next camp, where they’d come from, is much better. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Fingers crossed!</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The drive between camps took only 45 minutes and now I’m in Naboisho Conservancy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I met Minnie the camp manager and was just in time for lunch, which was delicious. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They had the choice of fish sticks or baked vegetable sticks, three bean salad (yeah, protein!), cheese and crackers. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had a glass of rosé with it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A nice rest before heading out for our first evening drive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m sharing with an English couple on their first safari and they’re eager to see cats, so hope it works out that way!</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Just as I was dozing off here at nap time, two flies started to annoy me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I made a mental note to get them before I left for tea. As I was getting dressed to head out, I saw a chameleon on the tent screen. “You better be on the outside,” I said. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He moved enough for me to see that he was inside. Ugh. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>“OK then, you better make yourself useful,” and with timing a movie director couldn’t have gotten better, a fly landed next to chameleon and it ate it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Chameleon is now allowed to stay. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As I write this several hours later, the second fly is now gone too.</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I met Kevin and Jane and our guide Twala and off we went. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I gave him the brief that I really want to see cats, and I think he got it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>First we made a stop at a hippo pool where there were also some golden weavers doing their annual nest making competition to win over females. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That is always fun to see. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then we headed to a nearby watering hole because Twala saw female lions from the Sampu Enkare breakaway pride waking up and walking through the bush. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He thought they might come down to drink. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I think it turned out to be still too hot and too early (it is broiling at 4 pm when we head out) so we moved on. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We found honeymooning lions who were early in their week of mating, so literally doing the job every 5-7 minutes. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was quick, only 20 seconds or so. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But….I learned something! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I always thought the female rolled over because of the passion of the act (LOL!) but really she rolls over to ensure the male’s sperm gets into her uterus?! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Who knew! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We watched a few rounds of mating from different angles, <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I got the best photos I ever have of mating lions head on and some video, and off we went.</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We headed for sundowner up on the plains, where a gorgeous sunset set off some great silhouettes of animals on the horizon. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Just as we pulled up, we saw three jackals going after a baby wildebeest. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The mother was fighting them off but they still managed to wound him on his hind leg. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Oooof, not a good start to his life.</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Dinner tonight was vegetable curry over rice and ginger cookies with cream. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> I ate with two cousins from NYC who are heading back tomorrow. They’re like minded when it comes to photography and wildlife, so it was a good conversation. </span>Back in the tent and ready for bed. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m slightly curious because they’ve not closed the front tent flaps when they walked me back here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I don’t think I’ve ever stayed here and kept them open….hmmmm.</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"> </span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-38666163504180292242023-02-18T14:29:00.001-05:002023-02-18T14:29:28.338-05:00Day Seven - Cat-trick<p> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-weight: bold;">Saturday February 18</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Fell asleep to rainfall last night, interspersed with lions who kept getting closer and closer all night. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were in camp at least twice that I could tell. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I heard a bit of huffing around my tent at 2:30 which I presumed was a cat of some sort (edit: Dido confirmed it was a hippo!). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then around 4 there was very loud lion roaring quite close to the tent. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>My closest neighbor confirmed it was between his tent and mine. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There are worse reasons to lose sleep!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The Swiss couple and I were right on time for our 6 am departure with Benja. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s still pitch dark at that time, so we have to be escorted from our tent to the vehicle. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I would have thought with lions in the immediate vicinity shortly before we headed out that we’d go looking for them first (a bird in the hand, as they say) but instead we took off for the other side of the conservancy, driving about a half hour to an area where cheetahs were found yesterday. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We came up empty on cheetah on your own and were lucky a guide from another camp told Benja there were lions right behind him, just ahead of where we were.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">So that’s how we came to find the three lionesses of the Iseketa pride snoozing under the edge of a large cluster of croton bush. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Benja said that they have four cubs but at this hour we didn’t see them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Two of the lionesses had fresh, still bleeding wounds (one on the neck, the other on the hip) so he was worried that there’d been a fight and the cubs had perished. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He asked if we wanted to wait and see if, once the sun warmed things up a bit, the cubs would appear. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Ummmm, of course!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We didn’t wait long until one lioness got up and went deeper into the croton bush, calling out to her charges…and out they came, four two-month old lion cubs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was delighted! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We spent about an hour watching them play, rough-house, attack each other and the lionesses, play with sticks, steal each others’ sticks, play with a lioness’ tail. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was all such great fun to see them so active, happy and playful. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s what I’ve been waiting for, I think, since I left here 4 1/2 years ago! </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The lioness with the wound on her neck seemed to need a break from mothering while she recovered from whatever happened last night. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Any time a cub would try to play rough with her, she’s put a massive paw on its head and push it down, as if to say, “not now, kid, Mom needs a break.” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Once the moms and kids started to settle down, we moved on to find the cheetahs.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">It didn’t take long for another guide to point Benja in the direction of Keli and her three almost-adult cubs (two males and a female). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We found them in the shade of a small acacia. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They appeared recently fed; Benja said they made a kill yesterday. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It looked like they were going to spend today sleeping it off, except we bumped into them again as we were nearing camp. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The cattle that are allowed to graze here due to the drought had moved into the area we originally spotted them and the family moved away.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Bush breakfast was out on the plains under an acacia tree. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had homemade granola with homemade yogurt and a couple of thin crepes with coffee and OJ. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was a nice break around 9:30 am.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Right after that we tripped over Kiraposhe’s boys again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This time the lame one seemed more lame than yesterday with a more pronounced limp and hesitation in weight bearing on it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Benja says he is still improving and pulled up video from the original injury a month ago and it is indeed a lot better than the obvious pain he was in then. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Benja says the uninjured brother is doing a good job looking after the injured one and is using his speed and ability to catch their prey while the injured one comes in to make the kill.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We were back at camp around 11:30, all in all a great morning. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I reviewed my photos, mostly of the cubs and am thrilled with so many of them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Unfortunately this Sony RX10 seems to be on its way to biting the dust with a lens issue…I am just crossing fingers that it lasts through Wednesday! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As much as I love the photos that I can get out of it, these problems are inexcusable especially given the price of the camera! </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Lunch today was veggie burger, rainbow pepper cold salad, eggplant and tomato cold salad, rolls and a cheese board. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was a mixed fruit salad with vanilla ice cream. I am really struggling with energy levels here, I think because I’m not getting enough (read: any) protein and carbs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I think they are interpreting “vegetarian” to mean that I only eat veggies. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I am desperate for some black beans or a whole lot of cheese. </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We headed out at 4:00 and it was downright sultry. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Not as hot as up at Sarara but we were all eager to get moving and have some air blow around. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Benja said the plan for tonight was to find an elusive leopard. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There is a leopardess who recently had cubs and they’ve only seen the cubs once but…. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We all said “YES” and off we went. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I told him not to tease me.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Right out of camp we came across an elephant family about to cross through camp. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We stopped to watch them for a bit. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They tend to frequent this particular plot of land because of the species of acacia tree there, which they are very partial to. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Indeed, a couple of the sub-adults actually pulled up huge branches of acacia and carried it off with them! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Like it was a take-out restaurant! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This herd had one tiny baby who was pretty cute and still getting used to having a trunk. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Pulling up the rear was a massive bull elephant who was pretty pissed off about the herders cows who were moving into the area to graze, and apparently he’d tried to charge another vehicle so when Benja saw him coming, we got the heck out of there.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The area where leopards tend to be is usually somewhere that has somewhat dense undergrowth and trees. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They like to hide low particularly if they have cubs and store their meals/kills high up in trees. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We were very clearly in leopard territory and really scanning high and low. Thankfully another of our camp vehicles found her first, so we just piggybacked off their sighting.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">In conservancies, the rule is the first four vehicles on the sighting get to stay, anyone who comes after must wait at a distance and swap out when one of the four leaves. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And also in the conservancies, only those who are staying here can be here, so there are no day trippers. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>All this usually means that there is good behavior and not the madhouse that I’ve seen in the public reserve. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Usually.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We were doing fine watching Akira (our leopard). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There was no sign of cubs, which was more than fine because she was fine specimen and well worth shooting off about 200 photos as she sat there looking as dismissive of us as a cat normally would. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She didn’t seem to love the passing motorbikes that locals use. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One more of our camp’s vehicles showed up and all was still good. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then a fourth one with a jackass private guide and a renegade driver eager to impress him showed up and it got tense.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Akira suddenly decided to hunt. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It literally came out of no where. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She threaded her way between the four of our vehicles and headed toward a cluster of bushes that would provide her some cover from a small herd of impala, one of which was a tiny baby that should have been an easy kill.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Jackass’s vehicle went speeding after her. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I think Benja was going to follow but I told him to stop and we’d catch up with her if/when she caught something. The other two vehicles looped around to the other side of her so if she kept going straight she’d go right at them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Benja followed them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Jackass pulled straight forward into the bushes where she was and sat there. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Literally, right into it. </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We waited it out and long story short the impala moved on. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then the hot pursuit for Akira began again and now other camps in the conservancy had heard so they showed up. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We found her, almost back to where we originally found her. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Who knows if she even attempted to hunt or turned back when all the vehicles started maneuvering around her. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When the 7th vehicle showed up and pulled up near her, I asked to leave. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We were way off from her, easily 40 yards, but I still felt like I didn’t want to be party to that. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was all fine and calm and respectful when it was just the first three of us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It soured me in the end but I did really appreciate the quiet time with her before it got ugly.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">So, given that we saw lions, cheetah and leopards today, we accomplished a cat-trick! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>All three in one day.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">About a half hour before sunset tonight, the sun was behind a thick bank of clouds and I wondered whether we’d see sunset at all. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Suddenly a hole opened in that cloud bank and a gorgeous set of sun rays poured over the plains. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was majestic and heavenly. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It made me think that maybe Dad was here with me, it was quite a show.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Sundowner tonight was on the plains watching the sun go down behind an acacia tree. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Pretty iconic.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Driving back to camp my long-running streak of seeing no snakes came to an end. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Just outside of camp there was something very long (easily 3 feet) and silvery white trying to cross the road. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Benja slowed to a stop to let it cross, and I looked forward to see why he stopped and I got a quick look before I could look away. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>“Is that what I think it is?” And he laughed. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>UGH. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He told me to pretend it was just a lizard without legs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>UGH. UGH. UGH.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Dinner tonight was a tomato soup, a three bean quiche (hallelujah!! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>PROTEIN!), broccoli, carrots, potatoes au gratin and a rhubarb crisp for dessert.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I’m all packed for tomorrow. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We’re doing the early game drive and then I’ll come back and transfer to Valley Camp for my last 3 nights.</span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-56184232713506570222023-02-17T14:17:00.004-05:002023-02-17T14:17:36.565-05:00Day Six — Return to the Mara, at last<p> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-weight: bold;">Friday February 17</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Last night was the first night all week I didn’t sleep well. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I think some of it was my dinnertime tippling (damn that British woman for turning me on to Shiraz after 2 G&Ts!) and the other was the constant snorting I kept hearing behind the tent. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was very close, definitely not elephant because I couldn’t hear the ears swishing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I asked over breakfast and it was a few Cape buffalo. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I like that the camp staff have a very good handle on what’s going on all around the tents, and they don’t seem concerned that all of this was that close, so I won’t be either.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I was up at 5:50 to finish packing and freshen up before I left. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Freshening up would have to wait since Boris and his friends broke the water main again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The water wasn’t repaired until 6:25, just in time for me to leave for breakfast.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Robert ate with me and we had a nice chat. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Breakfast was scrambled eggs and toast, two little pancakes and a bit of granola, coffee and juice. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I don’t know why I’m always so hungry because I’m doing absolutely no activity apart from the hike yesterday. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But I will gladly continue to eat the food since it is so good.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Godfrey from a local tour operator was on hand to drive me the 2 hours to Kalama Airstrip (I could not afford the private charter for a 90 minute excursion, LOL!). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Half of the drive was on dusty, dry roads, the other half on newly paved asphalt. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He got us there in about 1h 45. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We had as much of a chat as we could with his not very good english. </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">It was mildly disconcerting to come across a “police stop” on the tarmacked road. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There was an impromptu stop with a set of portable steel spikes in the road so no one could pass. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A bunch of men in camouflage and masks over their faces sat on the side of the road. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Godfrey told me they just needed to check passports but that said nothing more. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The guy on my side of the vehicle checked the passport, asked me my name and checked the passport stamp. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The guy on the other side checked Godfrey’s license and asked where we had come from <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>and where we were going. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And then we were on our way. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I wanted to ask “were those actual police?” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Just as I was about to, he said that they check along that road because it originates in Ethiopia 12 hours away and a lot of opium is trafficked through there. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Nice. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I guess I didn’t look the opium smuggler type.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We got to Kalama Airstrip and my flight arrived quite soon after. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was 75 minutes to the first Mara stop and another 5 minutes to mine. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A Kicheche driver was there to take my luggage and shuffle me on to my first stop in Olare Motorogi Conservancy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’d been here on my first safari and loved it (it was the home to the gorgeous Fig the leopard). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m so anxious to see what is in store for me now.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">One thing very obvious from the plane is how much greener it is here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Up north they are in dire straits in terms of drought. Everything is sand colored and painfully dry. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Here they’ve been getting a bit more rain, so there is a lot of grass and things look healthier. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s also about 15 degrees color. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>If I had to guess, I think I went from over 100F in Sarara to about 85 here now. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ll take it.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Too funny, there is a mother-daughter pair at lunch here today who remember me from the airstrip at Laikipia. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was landing as they were taking off 5 days ago! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Crazy.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Lunch here was quite good. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Vegetarian quiche, roasted beet salad (which I love!), another vegetable salad, a great cheese roll and a cheeseboard. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was raspberry mousse. And even after not sleeping well I still cannot say no to a glass of rosé.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Schedule here is up at 5:30 am, out at 6. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Back for lunch, out at 4, back at 7 and dinner at 8:00. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I can handle that!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We met for tea at 3:45 and headed out at 4:00. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I have been matched to share a vehicle with a Swiss couple. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When we met our guide, Benja, I made it clear, loudly, that I’m here for cats. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They are too. PHEW! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was worried they were birders. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There’s always that risk, but we’re good now.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">So off we went at 4:00 and we decided we’d head for where Benja last saw cheetahs, with a target of mother and four grown cubs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We drove a bit and Swiss Girl spots two massive owls in a tree. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Now, we all declared ourselves not be birders, but these owls were huge and pretty impressive, so we stopped. </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We spied a vehicle stopped in the middle of the plains and next to it were two male cheetahs who turned out to be Kiraposhe’s boys, who I spent two days watching hunt when I was last in Mara North. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They are still together and doing well, although one is limping from a hunting accident, but he is apparently much better now.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Then we moved on and the Swiss Guy spots a male lion just lying under a very small tree. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So we stopped. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>His brother was under another nearby bush belly up, head back, mouth hanging open. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We had to confirm he was breathing to make sure he wasn’t just dead. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Both of them were out cold, so we moved on. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then Swiss Guy spots the rest of the pride (Enkoyani pride for those who know) on the other side of the (dry) river. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Benja takes note, and we keep driving. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then he stops to check around us with binoculars, and stops again for a large herd of buffalo and giving us the history on the Cape buffalo in Kenya. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I turn around and make eye contact with Swiss Guy and he makes hand motions like “lions, over there, let’s go!” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I laughed but at least we were on the same page. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Finally, we got to them, with just one other vehicle there to watch.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The rest of the Enkoyani pride, as far as I could count, had 5 lionesses, 2 sub-adult males and 4 cubs. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And OH.MY.GOD were the cubs funny. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They’d just woken up and the lionesses were sleeping on, so they were piling on each other, play fighting and generally roughhousing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One little guy wandered off and found a stick to play with, and he had it for no more than 3 minutes before another came to take it from him. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One of the lionesses was very good about indulging them in some play time and she gently play-fought with them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The cubs are about 4 months old now and absolutely adorable; it was so much fun just sitting and watching them be kittens. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Although as a nervous pet parents chewing on sticks and eating grass concerned me!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">At one point, all four cubs went to nurse off one lioness. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She seemed marginally annoyed but she let them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The little sounds coming off of them, the content little squeaks, followed by kitten growls as they each fought for position. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It couldn’t have been a better start to my stay in the Mara. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It is so damn good to be back here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I can’t believe I’d been in Kenya almost a week and hadn’t seen a lion yet!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Just seeing the landscape, the vast yellow-green with blue skies and bright puffy clouds just hanging over it all, that is what I’ve been waiting for.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We were back around 7:30 and I decided to just go to the fire pit and have a drink rather than go back to the tent. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I missed the fun though because the other two tents near me found a herd of 5 elephants grazing up here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Ah, it’s ok. I’ve already had my close elephant encounter on this trip!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I heard a lion roaring as I sat around the fire pit waiting for everyone else to come to dinner. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And again towards the end of dinner. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And then as I sat here writing this, it was behind me on the right and then getting closer towards the front of my tent. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>THIS is why I miss this. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They’re out there!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Dinner tonight was samosas, rice and carrots and green beans, with a banana custard for dessert. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m utterly wiped out from today so heading to bed early. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>5:30 will come early!</span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-50073530068069610692023-02-17T04:25:00.005-05:002023-02-17T04:25:50.979-05:00Day Five — Part Two<p> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-weight: bold;">Thursday February 16 — part 2</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Daniel, Larro and I had a final game drive together tonight and it turns out that he has no incoming guests tomorrow so he is taking time off. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So it was bittersweet knowing these were our last hours together. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s always hard for me to get used to a guide and bond over shared experiences only to then have to leave them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But it goes with the territory. </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We headed off on a slow drive looking for gerenuk, which we ultimately did not find (I will just have to come back!) but we had fun with some birds. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>If I saw one that caught my eye, Daniel would pull up their call on a birding app and the birds would be tricked into coming closer so I could get good shots. </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I heard a couple of very loud cicada, which Daniel tried to find to show me, but they were really hiding in a tree. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Saw a few very tiny giraffes, but no gerenuk. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One interesting stop was to smell a perfume tree. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Daniel pricked a branch of it with a thorn and it gave off a very pleasant gel that they use both as perfume and for medicinal purposes.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We had a sundowner at another dry river bed and headed back to camp. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I bid them both goodbye and joined the Brits for dinner. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Tonight was Indian style and pretty good. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was a delicious brownie with cream and caramel over it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I didn’t linger long after dinner since I have to be on the road by 7 for the airstrip and my flight to the Mara. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m all packed now and ready to roll. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I cannot believe I’m on my way back!!</span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-1859796481994390432023-02-16T08:33:00.003-05:002023-02-16T08:33:42.611-05:00Day Five — Or, the day there was an elephant in my bathroom<p> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-weight: bold;">Thursday February 16</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I didn’t bother to read my book last night at all because I didn’t get my siesta and was tired from the day’s events. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I slept very soundly but for Boris the bull elephant who was tending garden behind my tent most of the night and when he left, a warthog took his place, oinking his way through he foliage.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I met Daniel and Larry at 6:30, carrying nothing more than my phone and a lip balm. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had no idea what Daniel’s idea of a hike was, but it was very clearly different than the casual nature stroll I had in mind. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He had told me at one point that is he is a mountain Samburu, versus a valley Samburu, and I’d say that’s likely true the way he and Larro were ascending the trails like lithe little gazelles while I felt like the clumsy Clydesdale bringing up the rear. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had only agreed to do a hike if we did it early before it got hot, so were were already into the hike by the time the sun was up over the mountains. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Daniel got me a packed breakfast and a big thermos of water. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That’s when I knew he had different plans than I envisioned.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Almost immediately outside camp, Daniel saw very fresh leopard prints in the dirt, followed by much much larger lion prints. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>With no other foot traffic to disturb the prints, he was able to measure the distance between front and rear prints and extrapolate how big the cats who made the prints were. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The leopard was pretty average size but the lion was most definitely a big male. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So they were very nearby last night but are quite shy with vehicles and people. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I knew coming here the likelihood of seeing cats was practically nil but I am excited to know they are really close by.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We hiked for about 45 minutes and I was becoming increasingly buggy and annoyed by the flying critters. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We didn’t encounter any wildlife other than birds, but at one point both Daniel and Larro stopped because they heard the familiar swish sound made when an elephant flaps its ears. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We never saw the elephant though. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(The parents and young boy who were staying here did suddenly encounter 4 elephants on their hike, which I was told was very much the adrenaline rush!). </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The hike wasn’t horrible but it was not sure footing and we are at a good elevation to start with so it was more work than it had to be for me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Plus, I don’t like sweating in the clothes I’ll be wearing all day or getting annoyed by bugs, so my enthusiasm for the hike was rapidly diminishing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Daniel asked if I wanted to go another 30 minutes up and I quickly squashed that idea because I’d still have to come down. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We stopped there on a large area of flat rock and had breakfast (a veggie pita roll up and granola with yogurt for me) and we talked for a while. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had told him about my sister’s exhibition on enslaved people and he asked to see it to share it with the other Samburu here. </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I asked about the Jewish connection the Samburu have and how it came about and he thinks it was lost tribes of Israel that made their way into Northern Africa and came down to Ethiopia and here in northern Kenya. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There are many similarities between the cultures, including the sacrifices they make, and the wedding and funeral ceremonies. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It is really very interesting.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We made our way down without me breaking an ankle or getting terribly overheated. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I took a shower now that our water was back on (naughty Boris took out another pipe last night) and had a big glass of juice to cool off. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This was the first outdoor shower I have had in daylight and it was just amazing to be outside under the sun. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>How do I get one of these at home?</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We left for Reteti Elephant Sanctuary at 10:45 to be there for the noon feeding. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When we arrived, Daniel turned me over to Gideon, an employee at Reteti, and he explained their mission and the current residents of the orphanage. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Right away, they fed their 4 rescued giraffes. Gideon handed me a bottle and one of the giraffes quickly guzzled it down and immediately tried to steal others’ milk. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Clearly, he has Simon’s (my cat, not my last guide) mindset.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Ten elephants came out and were fed first. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>These are the littlest ones and they are put in the stockades immediately after feeding so the older/larger elephants won’t harass them. One seemed not so happy about that but he’d follow a milk bottle anywhere and he quickly calmed down.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Next up were two individual elephants, one being Long’uro, the elephant that one of my vendors at work fostered for me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He lost most of his trunk to hyenas while he was trapped in a well. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He is a cutie and really adapted well. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Gideon said that they will have to cut back his tusks regularly in order for him to be able to drink and eat on his own. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But he will never be able to bathe or dust-bathe himself, so he will stay with them for the rest of his life, unlike the others who will be reintroduced to the wild.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The first group of older elephants came in next and the workers waiting for them with bottle started to sing to them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Each elephant seemed to know where it should go to for the right bottle. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In this group was Lomunyak, the elephant I’d fostered. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I took plenty of photos of them both and really enjoyed being around the elephants again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>At one point, the keeper brought Long’uro over to me so I could pat him and he was so cute and inquisitive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A couple others came over and one tried to grab my phone, which was funny (and I’m glad it didn’t!). </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">It sounds like Reteti’s reintroduction plan is different from Sheldricks in that they’ll all be able to be released here since for many this is where they were rescued. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They’ll be able to go at 7 years of age. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I asked if they might recognize their families if they were to find them and Gideon said it is possible but they will likely form their own herd with their fellow orphans.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">After the milk feed, Gideon took me to the kitchen where they make up all the milk bottles. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Each elephant and giraffe has a recipe based on its nutritional needs and it’s all on a massive whiteboard by name. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They add honey, whey protein, spiralina and a baby formula to some of the goat milk. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The next room had large pasteurizing vats for the goat milk. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I don’t know why I’d always thought the goat milk went from goat directly to elephant, but it does not. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The goat milk is collected by the milk mammas, local women who own goats and sell it to the sanctuary. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It is a very lucrative business for the women and a lifesaver for the sanctuary who found itself with a shortage of formula during the start of the pandemic.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I signed the guest book and bought a t-shirt and thanked Gideon for the special tour. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I really loved my time here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Who doesn’t love baby elephants?</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Daniel made a quick stop at elephant rock, a large rock on which an American street artist has painted an amazing image of an elephant. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The wildlife photographer Ami Vitale was involved in making that happen.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We had a hot dusty ride back and I arrived late for lunch. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Only one British couple is still here from before, we now have two more British couples in. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was still on a high from the elephant visit, so I’m foggy on what lunch was, but I recall potato salad like we have at home and a cold vegetable salad with carrots and zucchini. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Dessert was a really nice mango sorbet (funny how I remember the dessert and the nice rosé they served!)</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I chatted with the new British arrivals a bit and then headed up for siesta, which I didn’t get to take yesterday. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Well, I didn’t get to take it today either. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I changed into something cooler and hit the daybed out on the veranda. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I only sat for a few minutes before I heard munching in the trees behind my tent. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I looked back and through the branches I could see the rhythmic flap-flap of elephant ears, but they were maybe 50 yards behind me and uphill, so I thought there is no way it will come closer.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Wrong. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It starts coming down the hill to the point where I felt maybe I ought to move inside, so I did. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I continued writing my blog a bit more and heard it quite close behind my tent, so I went to the hallway behind my bed that leads to the bathroom and looked through the open tent flap, and there it was, maybe 20 feet up from the tent, chomping away. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I grabbed my phone and took video. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m pretty sure it knew it was being watched because at one time it stopped and looked in my direction straight on and gave out a low rumble.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I came back to my bed to continue writing, and stopped myself. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Am I really going to NOT sit and watch an elephant that close? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Nope!!!! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So I went back and sat on the bench next to the window and watched it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was pulling down large branches to get at the smaller tender bits but also chomping down huge old dead branches too like it was nothing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I sat there for maybe 20 minutes just taking it in and listening to the woompf-woompf rhythm of its ears as it cooled itself off. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It looked like it was turning to leave, so I went back to my bed. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Not two minutes later, and it sounded REALLY close, so I peeked around the wall behind my bed and could see the shadow of a tusk and a trunk against the tent wall! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was RIGHT THERE, not 6 feet from my tent, up on a low retaining wall. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I did not dare approach closer and at this point wee bit of fear set in, so I went back to the bed. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It continued to move on though and ate along the path to my outdoor shower and is right now on the other side of my shower; I can see legs and trunk from my bed here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Wow. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Pinch me. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(I confirmed after all this that it was Boris, who doesn’t care about anyone and knows we are safe for him, so they were never worried about my safety…)</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I’ve mostly packed to leave tomorrow. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>All day the thought keeps occurring to me that I’ll be back in the Mara. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>My happy place. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This has been wonderful though, and I won’t rush the rest of the day just to get to tomorrow. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One more game drive with Daniel and Larro.</span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-21250472358836803692023-02-16T08:32:00.001-05:002023-02-16T08:32:15.552-05:00Day Four Part Two — Not the easiest of days<p> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-weight: bold;">Wednesday February 15 - Part 2</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The rest of today was not an easy day but I’m glad I did it and I’m glad I saw it.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We had a lovely lunch again today with the cucumber salad, bean salad, stir fry veg and pita-type bread. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The things they do with non-meat products are very inspiring but I never seem to do them at home, as well agreed around the lunch table today.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">After lunch I had a beading session with two young girls from a village nearby. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I say girls, because I believe they are still teenagers, but both were newly married with a baby. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Rashida, the camp coordinator here, served as translator for us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I picked the colored beads I wanted and one of the girls went to work making me a double-stranded bracelet. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The beads are glass beads from the Czech Republic and very expensive to get here, and they are strung on a strand of a woven plastic sack like we’d get potatoes in at home. </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">While the two girls were working, I could ask any questions that I wanted, but I felt bad asking things that may be overly personal. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The girls are not related but live near each other and consider themselves sisters. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They could not believe that it took me 19 hours to get here. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were surprised I have no children. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I asked what I thought was safe, mostly around their beading and home life. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But they will not be going off to college now or having any more of a future than what they have now, and that was striking.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I asked if they’d like to see photos of my family and they did. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They were very excited to see photos but surprised that I still talk about my Dad. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Rashida explained that here, when people pass away, the Samburu force themselves to forget about them, to keep them from being sad. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I explained to Rashida that we remember them to help bring positive, happy memories back, but she did not translate that for them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m not sure they would have understood. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Daniel mentioned that the Samburu follow a lot of the Jewish tradition, and I wonder if the approach to death is rooted in that.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">After that, it was almost time for tea and the evening game drive. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Tonight we had muffins with whipped real cream which were quite good. I’ve been drinking club soda with lime because it’s most refreshing and light so I did so again today.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We did another slow drive out to the village we are visiting, and Daniel stopped when I wanted photos (Grevy’s zebra, more kudu, a few birds that caught my eye).</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">About 15 minute away from the village, by car, we came upon a little girl toting two large containers of water. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One was on a wire so that she could pull it and the other she was just carrying. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Daniel stopped to talk to her and it turns out she was going to the village we were visiting, so he asked me if I minded giving her a lift. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He hefted her load (30 liters of water!) into the back of our vehicle and she climbed in. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>At that point I had no idea how far she had left to walk, but after the visit he said it would have taken her 2 hours, which would have been well past dark! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was so shocked. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She couldn’t have been more than 7-8 years old and out on her own! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I just cannot even fathom what kind of existence it is that someone would send an 8 year old out to walk 2+ hours each way to carry 30 liters of water back on her own so close to dark!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Anyway, we visited the village, which is semi-permanent because the Samburu are nomadic and will pick up and move as soon as either water or grass are no longer available for the herds. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So their “houses’ are a circle of sticks with tarps or sheets of cardboard or corrugated metal over them to protect from the elements or the wildlife. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Inside (yes, I went in!) are tiny rooms with low ceilings. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One room for sitting, barely big enough for two of us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One room for the mother to sleep with the littlest kids and one room for the father to sleep with older kids. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They sleep on tarps or animals skins. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One teeny room for the fire. Running in and out were chickens and baby chicks and goats. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Needless to say this hypochondriac was holding her breath.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">There were maybe 12 kids running around among the various houses. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>All had dirty clothes, bare feet and some had no pants on at all. One very little boy thought I was funny for waving at him from a (safe for me) distance, so he came running over for a hug, which I expertly ducked. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was just so sobering. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Too sobering. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A tough message for the day. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When I left home I was complaining that the water from my new Brio water cooler was tasting funny, and now I see men drinking water straight from a well, kids bathing in it and now this little girl walking 6 hours round trip by herself to bring it back to her family. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>UGH.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Daniel took me for a sundowner in a dried up riverbed that is nothing but sand now. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I don’t know why it struck me so but it was very cool. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We returned camp tonight in plenty of time for me not to be the last one back, which was good.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The night game drives I have taken on the way back to camp haven’t proven terribly fruitful. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We see the neighboring elephants, giraffe and impala by night but no nocturnal creatures yet, other than what Daniel presumed was a stump but turned out to be a gorgeous owl just sitting by the side of the road. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I got the quickest of looks before it took off. Huge eyes!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Back at camp when I got to the common area, I found the older British gentleman (Hugh) there who asked how I made out, and because he made the mistake of asking, I just downloaded on him how heartbroken I was over that little girl. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He did a very good job of listening, providing perspective and explaining how the Sarara Foundation here has actually improved the lives of the Samburu immensely. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But he also said there is still so much work to be done and that people at home need to know how this water crisis is a very real thing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I thought back to this morning at the Singing Wells where I saw two little boys take buckets of water from the well, strip naked, rinse themselves down, dunk their clothes in the same water and get dressed again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And then that little girl. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It is a very harsh reality.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The conversation bled over into dinner and I came away ultimately feeling better about the fact that someone is trying to help and it has been effective. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But also that I can definitely help too.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">After my second gin and tonic and a glass of wine with dinner, we had a vegetarian stew (lentils, beans, tomato, onion) in lieu of the beef everyone else had, potatoes au gratin, a carrot/green bean/ zucchini stir fry and cheesecake for dessert. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m well sated now and hopefully fueled for the hike tomorrow morning. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Up at 6:00 am for a 6:30 hike!</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I sit here now listening to Boris the bull elephant right behind my tent tearing down trees so he can eat the greens. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Occasionally he’ll give a very satisfied purr or burp, I’m not sure which. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But he seems happy.</span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8111390492224516321.post-18542717987164448892023-02-15T04:44:00.000-05:002023-02-15T04:44:00.479-05:00Day Four Part One — Culture Day<p> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-weight: bold;">Wednesday 15 February</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The elephants below camp were pretty squawky late into the evening last night but things finally settled down out there around midnight. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’d been reading/dozing for a while and finally put the book down when it got quiet. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I slept solidly until the pre-dawn chorus broke out before 6. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I got up to lay on the daybed on my balcony to watch the sunrise and was back in bed to doze some more until 7:30. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The insomnia that has plagued me at home for the last several months has disappeared. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m sleeping long, hard and without the aid of Ambien, which I normally have to use to get over jet lag. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Safari in Kenya is truly a wonder drug.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I wasn’t meeting Daniel until 9, so I asked for my coffee to be delivered at 7:45. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They leave it on the balcony and ring a wooden bell to gently wake you. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I enjoyed my first cup of the day out on the balcony and then got dressed and fully sunblocked up. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It’s warm even in the mornings, and I’m happy I brought two pairs of shorts and a few sleeveless tops, it’s all I’m wearing, even into the evening. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It is not unbearably hot if you’re shaded and staying still, but I did ask Daniel to put the tarp across the roof of the vehicle so the sun wasn’t beating down on me as we drove back from Singing Wells. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I don’t mind getting the sun but I do mind getting overheated. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’m trying to keep up with my hydration here also.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Breakfast was scrambled eggs and toast and a little granola with yogurt. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I had passion fruit juice again, which is really delicious. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I ate with the older British couple who have been here 6 times before. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They have vast experience in Africa generally and are interesting to chat with.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We headed out at 9 for the singing wells. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Since they don’t allow photography, I had no idea what to expect, and it’s a good thing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Essentially it is a series of undergound wells from which the locals bring up the water and fill troughs for their goats, cattle, donkeys or camels. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They start singing miles out as they walk their herds to this one site, and the animals know to follow them and know which trough is theirs to go to. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The locals alternate days to bring their herds, so it’s not inundated. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But the other part of the “singing” wells is when they start the relay of buckets of water from deep down in the underground wells to the surface, with the last guy filling the troughs until the livestock is satisfied. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The song is rhythmic and meant to be motivating for them as much as it is a signal to the herds of where they should be drinking from. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It is not easy work, not clean work but I saw how quickly the livestock became bloated from all they drank. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Many of the men strip naked to do the work because they want to keep their clothes clean, and some of the kids would get buckets of water to wash themselves and the clothes on their backs right there at the well site. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>All of this is certainly a lot to take in, but what really dropped my jaw was when the men would drink water out of the bucket straight from the wells, water that was quite obviously muddy, dirty and otherwise unhealthy to us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Daniel says that he drinks from it too as the Samburu have just built up a resistance to the very micro-organisms that would send us into dire illness. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Fascinating.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">The drives so far with Daniel are, I’ve decided, the epitome of slow travel. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Normally on safari it is sort of a boomerang of activity from one sighting to the next, unless you’re waiting for something to happen or otherwise want to park yourself at a sighting to really enjoy it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>With Daniel, we will stop to observe, discuss, savor some of the littlest details from which I learn so much. </span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">This morning we were coming back to camp and pulled up next to a giraffe that the camp had rescued and raised. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She was very comfortable with our vehicle so stayed put. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>She was chewing vegetation and I marveled as I watched her swallow, and saw the ripples of muscle push the food down her massive neck. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I mentioned to Daniel how I’d never noticed that before and he told me to watch, and suddenly her stomach contracted, the muscles rippled upward this time and she was chewing again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’d just seen the whole process in reverse! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>How many giraffes over how many safaris have I seen and never knew this? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was pretty cool. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The bee-eater bird we saw yesterday was another example, watching it survey the air around it for a target, then snatch and grab and return to the branch to feed on it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve never taken the time to see that before.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">I did have a fleeting sighting of a gerenuk on the way back into camp but it spooked and moved on. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I would love to see it feeding while standing on its hind legs.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">As much as I’m learning about the Samburu, I’m also teaching them. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We spent today discussing how our hours of daylight vary year round, how December are the shortest hours of daylight and June the longest. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Here on the equator it’s 12 hours of each all the time. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I told them how in places like Alaska, they have light all day around the summer equinox, and they just can’t fathom that. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I also taught them about humpback whales and showed Daniel video from some of our whale watches, and it really amazed him. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He says he likes learning like that too, it’s like traveling through us for him.</span></p><p class="p3" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 24px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s2" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Quick rest in the room before lunch. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I have a beading lesson with local ladies after lunch and a village visit tonight. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Today is ‘culture day’!</span></p>amybatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15672657754736134851noreply@blogger.com0