I didn’t get into bed until just before midnight. I was worried that I wouldn’t fall asleep but since I’d forced myself to stay mostly awake on the flight from Amsterdam (wanting to maximize all the enjoyment possible in Business Class!) that was not a problem. If only I didn’t have a 5:45 wake up call!
I slept solidly but not nearly long enough. Nevertheless, I quickly showered, doused myself in sunblock and was ready to roll at 6:30 am. My flight on SafariLink was supposed to be at 8, and we got to the terminal at 7:05. I had skipped the included breakfast at the hotel only because I favored sleep over food and figured I could pick something up quickly at Wilson Airport. I had barely enough time to eat my yogurt and donut and down my Americano coffee before they were calling for boarding! We were pulling out of the terminal at 7:40 and airborne at 7:42…early!
Flying SafariLink is always funny to me. Having checked my bag at the ticket counter (where they weigh it to ensure I’m under the 15kg allowance), I then have to identify it again at the steps to the plane, which I guess is good in ensuring my bag will go where I go. With 12 of us aboard, the pilot and co-pilot, turn around to give us the safety briefing from the “flight deck” which is really just the two seats behind the instruments and in front of the rest of us.
The flight to Loisaba airstrip was smooth and clear. We had a nice view of Mt. Kenya just before we landed.
I’ve been this far north before only once, when I went to Ol Pejeta on my first Kenyan safari in 2014. I didn’t know the geography of anywhere else then, so now I realize how different this is from the Mara, where I usually spend my time here. It is really rocky. Up on the plains where it is nothing but flatness as far as you can see, there are lots of smallish boulders, like bowling balls that would take out your vehicle’s undercarriage if hit just so.
Once we got into Laikipia and closer to camp, it because more dense with low trees, croton bush and lots and lots of cactus. I talked to the camp manager, Ron, about the cactus because I hadn’t expected to see it. He said it’s a very invasive plant and they try any natural means possible to kill it, either chopping it down, pulling it up or in one case breeding an insect that will kill it. Obviously you can’t use herbicide here for all the effects it would have on the food chain (baboons eat the prickly pear, for example) so it’s more a matter of managing it.
Just on the drive from the airstrip to here, about 90 minutes, I saw 2 of the Big 5 (elephant and Cape buffalo) and 3 of the Northern 5 (Grevy’s zebra, Besia Oryx and Somali ostrich). There are plenty of common zebra (the first animal I saw on this trip), impala and Thompson’s gazelle, as well as tons of dik dik (miniature gazelles). I also saw one springbok, which I mistakenly thought might just been a larger dik dik.
Interestingly, my guide said that Loisaba Conservancy, where I landed and through which we drove to get to camp, is importing rhino from elsewhere in Kenya (Solio he thought). He wasn’t sure if they are already here or not, but they were due soon and the conservancy had made plans by fencing the land and implementing security.
Laikipia Wilderness Camp is nestled up over the river, which is now running pretty dry due to the ongoing drought. There are 6 tents around a common area. The tents are pretty basic but have a very comfortable day bed on the veranda looking out over the river down below, where I will very willingly spend my day’s siesta. It’s my first outdoor bathroom though, which should be fun.
Simon was my guide coming in from the airstrip and I think I’ll have him as my guide the rest of my stay. I like him, he’s been a guide here for 6 years and when I asked what he likes most about his job he said that he gets to see wildlife everyday and he loves the leopard. Right answers!
We had an early lunch here, with zucchini and cauliflower with a light teriyaki sauce, a green salad with tomato, tomato and cheese and a really nice focaccia. Dessert was a fruit salad of watermelon, pineapple, and banana. I’ve already had my first Stony Tangawizi and a cup of coffee to power me through the day.
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